Is my driveshaft rebuilt?
#11
#13
I didn't get a chance to do mine today, as the oil change took a lot longer than I was expecting. Rotella in 2.5 gallon jugs=cheaper, but A LOT harder to pour, and keep track of how much you have poured. (I didn't have anything smaller to transfer to beforehand)
My question to Antichrist was essentially if it is recommended to drop the shaft to ensure all four bearing caps are properly greased. With the shaft on the vehicle, the bind of the joint sometimes prevents a few caps from getting new grease from the seals.
My question to Antichrist was essentially if it is recommended to drop the shaft to ensure all four bearing caps are properly greased. With the shaft on the vehicle, the bind of the joint sometimes prevents a few caps from getting new grease from the seals.
#14
Remove it if that's what you have to do, but usually you can tap the opposite side of the yoke, or wiggle it to get the grease to flow. Odds are good if you can't get it from all for seals it's dried and the u-joint should be replaced.
The front propshaft isn't something you want to be lazy or cheap with.
I rebuilt both the front and rear on my wife's '97 right after we bought it because I couldn't get grease from around all 4 seals on all the u-joints.
The front propshaft isn't something you want to be lazy or cheap with.
I rebuilt both the front and rear on my wife's '97 right after we bought it because I couldn't get grease from around all 4 seals on all the u-joints.
#15
If it has a grease fitting on all 3 u-joints it's been rebuilt. At some time in the past
That in no way means it's fit for service. A greasable u-joint that isn't greased properly is worse than a sealed u-joint.
Given how often I see misinformation on how propshafts should be greased I'd rebuild it, regardless.
That in no way means it's fit for service. A greasable u-joint that isn't greased properly is worse than a sealed u-joint.
Given how often I see misinformation on how propshafts should be greased I'd rebuild it, regardless.
#16
Ah, that's what I wanted to know!!! Thank you for taking the time to reply to this question. I will definitely replace the u-joints and center ball as soon as the local Rover parts supplier opens Monday. I just can't be sure what's been done to this truck, I can tell that it's been VERY well maintained, at 130,000 miles when I bought it ALL the fluids were crystal clear when I replaced them, even the engine oil. So it hasn't been neglected whatsoever, but the previous owners didn't seem to know too much about auto maintenance, they just took it back to the dealer every time they heard a noise, something broke or maintenance was on the schedule. This is not worth waiting to see what happens, I'll spend the money!! Better a little money now than A BUTT LOAD when it decides to eat it and take the trans with it.
So you are on the right track in my opinion.
My truck was also a dealer maintained truck, it is the only way to buy used.
#18
And thanks to all of you who took the time to reply, any and all help is great.
#19
I've been dealing with Al Tocci since about '80 or so (he once approached me about opening a west coast DAP shop) but the fact is you'll pay a good deal more for the u-joints than if you get PDQ 1-0005 at Advance Auto. About the same though if you buy Precision 344's somewhere.
DAP moved to VT about the time I left VT. LOL
DAP moved to VT about the time I left VT. LOL
#20
I've been dealing with Al Tocci since about '80 or so (he once approached me about opening a west coast DAP shop) but the fact is you'll pay a good deal more for the u-joints than if you get PDQ 1-0005 at Advance Auto. About the same though if you buy Precision 344's somewhere.
DAP moved to VT about the time I left VT. LOL
DAP moved to VT about the time I left VT. LOL