Hey All,
Just picked up my first Disco2! It's stock, fairly clean, no rust, ~100k miles, 2004 "town classic" spec, V8.
It hadn't been driven for 6months+, but still seems to run well. I just drove it ~200 miles home without issues.

Before I do any significant mods/beautification, first need to get it roadworthy and reliable.

Condition:
- 100k miles
- 3 amigos
- Needs new tyres
- Clacking when warm
- Hasn't really been driven in 6months. Something I should look at?


So things to maybe do first based on some preliminary research to improve reliability before anything else:
- Fresh oil and filter (Extreme heavy duty diesel motor with ZZDP additive - Shell Rotella 15W-40?)
- Preventatively replace front sealed u-joint next to catalytic converter? How to know if this is a real threat?
- 180deg thermostat - any brand recommendations? Inline or Y / OEM Td5? Hope running cooler also fixes my "clacking"
- Upgrade electric fan? 2x spal (<15A)? Stock radiator fine? Total cfm?
- OBDII to keep track of engine temp. Recommendations? Can I use bluetooth reader plus carscanner or something? Some permanent fixture may be good.
- Diagnose and fix 3 amigos (try clean out wheel sensors, or rewire and bypass shuttle valve) - need OBDII write?
- Pinned FV308 PCV install thing?
- What else?


- Tyres and setup
We're looking at mainly using this for towing a caravan to remote off-track locations (if can get reliable) with lots of 70mph highway in between. Will see some gravel, dirt and mud, but nothing extreme. Will likely keep factory airbags (apparently recently replaced) and springs for now = no lift. Even thinking keeping it as a clean stock example with some touchups. Can come back after a few trips and decide what's best for our needs.

Thoughts on Geolandar A/T G015? 255/55R18 as a decent all rounder? They're on special near me right now.

Appreciate any feedback to the above for a Disco rookie! Thanks for having me in the club.

 

Welcome here. Great vehicle choice.

 

welcome to the club. that's a clean looking Discovery.

never seen one with the Classic logo on it. not sure what that means. i'm pretty sure you have an '03, judging from the roof rack bars. an '04 should have the fatter, rounder bars.

definitely change out the front propshaft for a greaseable unit.
i would change out the thermostat for sure, or even better do the inline mod. my '04 does throw codes with that mod occasionally from running a little to cool. i'll probably move up to the 190 degree thermostat.
Ultra-Gauge is good for monitoring engine temps and reading and resetting codes as needed.
get your ABS codes read some where. look up Option B fix if you have any codes related to the Shuttle Valve.
do the PVC mod.
change the oil. many here on the forum like the Rotella 15w40. some in the UK even run 20w50 oil.


keep an eye/ear on the clacking when warm. others here with more experience can speak to that, but clacking when at operating temp isn't usually a good thing.

 

Nice looking truck. I assume the Classic pak is a UK thing? What's that trim level include? Sunroofs? 7 seater? Welcome. If MOT requires strict emissions testing you may want to be careful on the high ZDDP. It's not great for your cats.

jastutte has nailed the must-dos. I use an UltraBlue OBD scanner which links to an iPad mini and is bluetoothed to the factory radio with an adapter. The big benefit is that there's an audible alarm over the car stereo if there are any warning conditions, specifically over temp but also oil changes, fuel level, etc. The wired Ultragauge or Scangauge has it's own alarm so it's a little more foolproof in that you don't need to have the stereo on, however I do 99% of the time anyway so it's a risk I'm willing to take since the iPad is music and navigation anyway. Sort of a poor man's CarPlay type affair. Well it wasn't that cheap but I like the look of the factory headunit so it works for me..

 

@Stiive If you have an 04/03 then someone swapped out the roof bars - run your VIN and make sure what you have

A simple bluetooth dongle and Torque on your phone for OBD works fine for monitoring and getting codes

You should start simple fix the required :

1. 3 Amigo's 1st there is a write up on the option B , but you should get the codes read and posted for that.
2. Drive shaft replaced with a greasable unit and grease it every 3000 -5000 miles

Cooling system - run as is until you can monitor you temps and know where you are at

• There is no really good option for a bigger rad there are a few but generally not worth it
• I do not recommend electric fans, if you are going to off road, as well it may require an alternator upgrade.
• Getting a Hayden fan clutch and Dorman fan helps a lot - you can search for the part on the forum
• Inline is 100% worth it - but not until you know where you are at

Oil any oil with about 1000-1200 PPM of zinc is fine 10/40 is a good weight,you can also regular oils and a zinc additive. Synthetic or Dino isup to you.

Now the big issue the clacking when warm this could be the result of long oil changes, the wrong oil, or a whole bunch of of very bad things.

• Is the noise at the top or bottom and what kind of noise. Look up lifter tick, slipped liner, and
• If it is the the top it is likely rockers or lifters
• Bottom is something more concerning

Here a some videos to help you id the noise

Lifter tick Bottom end knock Liner tick

 

Welcome to the forum and welcome to Discoveries!

Nice Disco! A little bit of mystery to it with the "Classic" branding and the non-2004 roof bars.

In addition to what others have said, I recommend changing the oil in both diffs and the transfer case. I'd also consider changing the transmission fluid. After changing mine the shifts are more brisk and confident. You'll need to follow LR's procedure on it.

I see in the pic it has the Series II wiper arms. If they're like the ones in the US, they're made of plastic and eventually warp. You can change to Series I arms which are metal and won't warp (they pop right on). Both of my Discos had scratched windshields from the wiper arms rubbing on them.

 

Hey All - thanks so much for the responses.

Re Classic branding - interesting that its unusual. I hadn't seen it either.
Its definitely a 2004 based off VIN and compliance build plate. Also has the centre lock.
Not sure what's up with the roof racks.

"Classic pak is a UK thing?" I am in Australia, so don't know.
"What's that trim level include? Sunroofs? 7 seater? " Leather seats (non-electric), 7-seats, spare wheel cover, no sunroofs... not sure what else is optionable.

Regarding Maintenance, seems like the consensus is:
- change out the front prop shaft for a greaseable unit / drive shaft replaced with a greasable unit and grease it every 3000 -5000 miles
Are there standard brand recommendations, or drop-in replacements from other OEMs / LR models?
What about a new sealed unit? Plus fabricating some sort of custom heat shield between the cat and shaft (assuming excessive heat is drying it out and causing the issue)?

- Change out the thermostat, or even better do the inline mod.
Motorad inline as per sticky recommended?

- Ultra-Gauge, OR bluetooth dongle and Torque, OR UltraBlue OBD scanner + iPad mini
Already have a bluetooth dongle. Tried and working for now . Will work outa long term solution later.

- Get your ABS codes read some where. look up Option B fix if you have any codes related to the Shuttle Valve.
Cant an ODB2 reader I get read the codes myself? Or need something more advanced for that?

- Oil any oil with about 1000-1200 PPM of zinc is fine 10/40 is a good weight, you can also regular oils and a zinc additive. Synthetic or Dino / many here on the forum like the Rotella 15w40. UK 20w50 oil.
I'm in a temperate zone, never gets below 0C / 32F, so I guess will just find what's decent price.

- Do the PVC mod.
Will follow the pinned thread and do, thanks.

- change the oil in both diffs and the transfer case
Will do per LR

"Now the big issue the clacking when warm this could be the result of long oil changes, the wrong oil, or a whole bunch of of very bad things."
Hope its nothing too sinister. I did get low oil warning when it was cold but quickly went away. And had been sitting a long time... hopefully flushing the oil will be good for it....
I just turned it over again now with Torque OBD2 and heard the the clicking/clacking started almost instantaneously at 93degC / 200F. There was no build up in noise, it just suddenly started. Interesting.
I also noted a small amount of oil or fuel dripping from the exhaust... hmm.

 

@Stiive The low oil light is low oil pressure that is bad sign if your oil is fully topped up. It could be simple a clogged pickup screen or clogged filter. I suggest you change the oil and filter right away, just use off the shelf 10/40 and anything but a fram oil filter. Hopefully that gets rid of the oil warning light.

The liquid from the tail pipe could just be moisture in the exhaust- it should dissipate in about 5 or 10 minutes. If it does not (assuming it is warm out 20 c or so) it is likely a the beginning of failed head gasket.

Now the bad news hitting 200F or more and then clacking is typical symptom of a slipped liner - you maybe able get them pinned otherwise it is a replace the block. As the engine gets hot enough the liner moves and hits the head and bottom stop, my bet is the seller knew there was an issue that why it sat.
Confirmation pretty requires removing the head, although some folks have had luck hitting the side the noise is on with cold water which drops the temp and the noise stops

 

Do the thermostat inline mod - there are many reasons to do that (@Extinct listed them). In addition I added an oil cooler (stock with sandwich thermostat). I have temperature gauges almost everywhere and the engine oil can get pretty hot when climbing a hill or driving at freeway speed in hot weather. An oil cooler doesn't prevent that, but reduced the max oil temperature by 10°C in my case.

It's unlikely that bringing down temperatures fixes the "clacking". At least per my experience. In my case rock hard hydraulic lifters caused it probably, but can't confirm it. The engine broke down and I found this out after the fact.

 

Lowering the temperature via the inline should take care of the slipped liner. Many have run the engine with slipped liners for a long time. Every 03-04 I ever bought had greasable driveshaft installed. Hopefully your oil pressure light issue was related to it sitting or low on oil or something. You may want to check the oil pressure with an external gauge.