I have a completely new brake hydraulic system to bleed (new master, pipes, hoses, calipers…the works, so it’s bone dry)
I’ve researched many old postings both here and other forums and I just can’t get a definitive guide as to the process. Here is what I think the procedure should be, if anyone can confirm or clarify I’d appreciate it.

step 1.bleed the brakes the old fashion way with the usual pedal pumping/opening the bleed screw at each wheel.
step 2. Now Using the Nanocom, while applying constant pressure on the brake pedal, activate the Modular Bleed function on the Nanocom.
NOTE; This is where I get conflicting information. Is it necessary to open the bleed screws on each calipers as this Modular bleed function is happening?
step 3. And finally, perform the Power Bleed function on the Nanocom, opening the bleed screw for each caliper successively.

Does this sound right? Since my system is bone dry I do have a vacuum bleeder to use on each caliper to help get the fluid flowing as my first action.

 

I would actually start with the Nanocom bleed, then bleed the calipers. Tip, start with the farthest from master cylinder, then progress towards the master cylinder. Put a wrench on the caliper, connect a hose and loop it above the caliper with the hose end in the jar. Open the valve and let it gravity bleed. The air will come out and the loop will keep the air from going back in the system as the bubbles come out. Bleed an ounce or two per wheel before doing the traditional pump and dump.

Assume you have a nanocom? Or other scanner that can do the programmed bleed.

 

I have the iLand tool (got it on a massive sale).
The brake bleeding process is the same, so the following YouTube video will show you the process.

 

Thanks. I did see that video and it was helpful. I’m just confused during the second step, the MODULAR BLEED with your foot on the brake.
Do you open the bleed screws during this process?

 

You don't open the bleed screws during the modulator bleed, if you do the modulator bleed won't work, or at least not nearly as well because it relies on pressure in the system to move the fluid around. The D2 has 2 brake circuits, A and B (this is in the RAVE somewhere)- circuit A is the "passive" normal traditional brake circuit and circuit B is the "active" ABS/TC, both circuits are housed in the modulator. When you bleed the modulator you are doing an "internal flush" so to speak by pushing the fluid from circuit B in to circuit A. This means that the fluid in circuit A is now dirty so that has to be bled again to purge the old fluid from the system. It really is kind of a waste of a lot of good fluid when you do the whole "3 step" bleed but it's the only way to get totally fresh fluid in your system.

 

I did it without diagnostic tools. Pedal action for master cylinder bleeding, activation of ABS with a relay and a switch and finally triggering HDC while driving. Search the forum, there are multiple posts about this.

 

I have done this for every single car I have ever owned. It makes sense to get all the air out in each successively shorter run. I've never even heard of doing it differently on purpose. And after doing it to my Rover using a Foxwell and the ABS pump I ended up with poor but driveable results. The first pedal application travels too far but then firms up quickly on the second and third application. The next time you go for the brakes, same thing. I'm guessing I simply didn't get all the air out of the lines and will give it another go. Then I was looking at the Rave and was more than surprised to see this.

 

I don't see how the RAVE manual is correct. Extinct suggested the order that I've used on road and race cars. Why would the D2 be any different?

 

I'm not sure why the D2 is different, but I just replaced the Master Cylinder on mine and followed the RAVE procedure to bleed the brakes and they feel great.

My theory is that by bleeding the fronts first you get most of the bubbles out quickly. Then you don't end up with bubbles stuck in the rear lines if you don't bleed it enough. I usually err on the side of bleeding too long to make sure clean fluid is in the entire system. And from working on some Alfas which can be super stubborn.