Jfall what should I look for in the ohm meter readings?

I was very tempted to check the torque on the head bolts and the valley. But I didn't. That's why I pulled the number 8 spark plug, honestly. It was not super clean and it was not wet, so I'm going to leave well enough alone. I did notice that, compared to the number 1 plug, it had the slightest sheen of oil on it... Probably valve guides. I'm not messing with that unless it progresses well beyond its current state. I swapped the 1 and 8 plugs and ran it for a short time and it threw the 8 code again. Then I pulled the 8 cylinder plug and it had no oil on it. Cylinder 1 had no problems with the original 8 plug. So it definitely isn't an abundance of oil.

 

From the Rave page 406: Faults for each injector are stored in the ECM and can be retrieved using TestBook. Each injector can be checked
across the two connector pins. For a correctly functioning injector a resistance of between 13.8 and 15.2 ohms at a
temperature of 20°C (65°F) should be read across the pins.

 

I wish I could find things in the RAVE so quickly. Maybe someday...

Thanks Jared!

 

About to crack open the beast again. Armed with ohm meter and noid light test kit from HF

 

Okay I am sure it is wiring. I tested each of my injectors and wires, then simply put the manifold back on, hooked everything up, and drove away. All I had done was move the wires. No misfires, no codes. I had a lingering problem at the foremost vacuum hose on the intake, so I put some duct tape on it (the real kind, with foil), just to see how that would help, and my engine sprang completely back to life.

Now, I dropped a few of those little metal clips--quite a few--and ran out before clipping my drive side coil connector on, so I decided to search the driveway for clips. I messed with it a bit and got the clip on. Just to be sure everything was good, I took another drive and suddenly my driver side O2 sensors weren't being recognized. I hadn't touched them but I had touched the main wiring loom that the coils, injectors, and oxygen sensors attach to. I wiggled it some more and they came back to life.

So, for posterity, be very careful with your wires on an older engine. I will be shopping for new wiring and that little connector with the red plastic ring, and doing a smoke test, tomorrow and be miserable all weekend putting the wiring in. Once that is done I am going to watch the data stream and get real nit picky about the values. Then I'm ordering my om617 adapter ring from Sweden and I'll have a whole new set of problems, but one of them will not be computer codes (from the engine, anyway).

Thanks for all of the help folks! Got me back on the road!

Best,

Charlie V

 

I had. 14 on all of them. Also checked for pulse to all of them. All worked... See post below. Misfire went away but I'm pretty sure I just jiggled the wires. I didn't swap anything.

 

Another late night I see. Good to hear you got it running. When you said it worked when you wiggled the harness, it really makes me think that you might have a ground wire loose. Check all of the ground connections and you might want to scrape the surface where they connect to make sure they have a good ground.

Here is the connection you need: Intake Manifold Brake Servo Vacuum (Genuine Part # LZN100220L) - Land Rover hydraulics from Atlantic British
If you broke the plastic tube also here it is: Hose Brake Servo To Intake Manifold W/ Sec. Air Injec. (Genuine Part # SQB103301) - Land Rover hoses from Atlantic British

 

I really need to learn how to save certain pages from the RAVE so I can post them. LOL... Anyway, Check out page 1415 and go down to step 15. Check the ground cable that the picture shows. Make sure the ground surface is clean, the nut is tight and the wire looks good.


(15. Remove nut securing engine harness earth to
body and disconnect engine harness to main
harness multiplug.)

 

I will certainly check it. That strap was loose and I hand tightened it, but I have not cleaned it or roughed up the surface at all. I'm going to search for every ground. I know there is the strap, a ground to the alternator, and a battery ground wire to the front passenger part of the block. Have to check those and any others because the problem is clearly electrical.

 

Well the fun never ends. Had a nice drive out of town this morning at 70MPH and took twice as long to get back with misfires on 1,3,5 and 7 at 35 mph and below. I stopped, in my SUIT, and crawled on the hot, running engine to be sure that the driver coil was hooked up (it was... and when I pulled it off the engine really got unhappy), then heard the familiar sound of a rattle under the truck, beneath the driver seat. I've heard that before on another vehicle and I think it is precious metals bouncing around in a tin can. Careful, further examination reveals that it is coming from the driver side catalytic converter. I guess all of the trouble I have had with misfires, 123,000 miles of driving, and leaking HGs finally clogged it/them up.

It is a money pit, but it is my money pit. Plan is to remove the pre-cat 02 sensors and take a quick turn around the block just to confirm that it is the cat. The temptation is to remove the crossmember, drop the Y pipe, remove the cats and put some flexible pipe in its place, soak the cats in sea foam for a few days then blow them out, space the rear O2s off the bung, and focus on the object of my desire: the OM617 that is sitting my garage.

O2 heaters are throwing a code after 40 miles of driving: all of them (the new ones), so a ground fault is strongly suspected. I have no idea where to look for that. The white wires on the O2s are the heater wires, if memory serves, but I don't know where they go to ground. Have to figure that one out. Any suggestions?