I got this...

Out of the cylinder head through the intake with this..



That's a refrigerator magnet on the end.

 

Nicely done! Makes me think back to all of the nuts I've seen hammered into the top of pistons from small block chevy's with carbs. It's pretty surprising sometimes what an engine can endure.

 

I got everything back in place and fixed alot of other things that didn't look right. Unfortunately I must have missed something because it won't start. It cranks but doesn't turn over at all and after draining the battery I don't smell gas.

I checked the inertia switch by pushing it. It didn't click and went right to the bottom. I must have missed a connection. I didn't remove the injectors and made sure they were all connected securely. I just don't think it is getting any gas at all.

The only thing that is not perfect that I saw is the oil pressure sensor. Or maybe it is an oil temperature sensor. Just above and behind the filter. Someone did a redneck connection on it. Could that be causing it not to start?

 

I was really worried that I wouldn't find it. I would have worried every minute for the rest of my rover's life.

 

A few search terms for future googlers: discovery, disco ii 2, won't start, will not start, starter, turns over, fuel, gas. If you have a spark at the plugs check the inertia switch on the passenger side near the firewall (push it down... If it clicks that was your problem), battery voltage, and crank sensor connection. It could also be a bad crank sensor. The crank sensor is on the driver side just behind the exhaust flange, and has a cover of it with a Silver wire coming out of it to a black connector. Failing that, check the relay to the fuel pump and if necessary check for fuel pressure at the Schrader valve that you can barely reach by laying on the engine and reaching around the driver side of the intake.

It was the crank sensor. Started right up after I connected it. I let it idle for 30 minutes and did not get any codes. However it is still running bad and the cats are rattling. It was just too cold and dark to drop the pipe and start cutting and welding, and while I am doing that I want to go ahead and do the side out exhaust/remove the rear resonator. That will take some time and a couple of trips to the parts store. Tomorrow.

I'm not prepared to say that I have fixed all of my misfire issues but simple visual inspection of the wiring harness I removed revealed that it was certainly causing some problems. In particular, it was definitely causing my o2 sensors to not heat or function. I think that combined with all of my other problems, destroyed my catalytic converters. But the truck has just over 120000 miles so I'm not upset that they are being replaced.

 

So can anyone give me a tip how to remove the oil sensor? It is 2432 and in a very tight spot. I can't even turn a wrench, and a socket would have to go over the not and sensor connector, leaving no room for the ratchet. Please don't say I have to take the alternator and its assembly off. There has to be an easier way.

 

Can you get on it from underneath with a gear wrench? I haven't pulled mine but it looked like it was doable. Maybe some other type of wrench? I always like to use tricky situations like that to justify getting more tools.


If the thing is junk you can always smash the connector portion off to give yourself more room. I have to admit that is usually how I pull O2 sensors. They have always come out so far but I'm sure one day I'll pay for using that approach.

 

I crawled under the truck to take a look and I was able to get an open end wrench on it. If you can't get that then maybe try a crowfoot wrench like this:

 

Looks like I need to visit sears again. I can just barely reach it from underneath with the 24mm wrench. I wish I had a ratcheting wrench that size, but that is pretty big.

+1 on the hulk smash idea, but I do need to get the new one snugged.

I appreciate the suggestions. I never thought I would need anything beyond the 192 piece craftsman set, but I never thought I would be messing around in an engine bay, either.

 

Thanks for posting this detailed exploration of your misfire issues. I am starting to get similar infrequent misfires on my 2001 (no O2 codes though). Three episodes so far and the last had the truck running on less than 8 cylinders for a few minutes and then it mysteriously started running perfectly again. I got it home, parked it and ordered new coils and front O2 sensors. The plugs and wires look very new, but I ordered new of those as well since I'll have the intake off. But now I'm thinking this could all be a wiring harness issue and I'll be checking that multi-connector on the firewall this weekend.