Need go get hood open on D2 asap - help anyone?
#12
Ha I hear ya...I was even more bummed about it b/c I got back from vacation yesterday to a dead Rover....and the day before I left for vacation, I just got the truck back after getting new brakes all the way around, new ball joints, 2.5" suspension lift (springs/shocks) and new 265/75/16 tires, etc. Didn't even get a chance to drive it more than 20 miles before I left, and now I can't even sit in it in my driveway!!!
Already replaced the remote battery...no dice. Going to Rover dealer tomorrow!
Already replaced the remote battery...no dice. Going to Rover dealer tomorrow!
#13
OK - my battery is completely dead, keyless entry does not work and the truck will not unlock with the key. That said, I read a post about charging the battery through the starter (no luck after an hour) so I removed the drivers headlight, but do not see anywhere where I can open the hood from there unless I cut apart the cable. Can anyone help please? I am desperate to get into the truck.....Thanks in advance -
How did you do the hookup to the starter? You need to connect the "power" wire to the big nut with the red cable on the starter and the "negative" cable to a clean point on the frame of your truck. This gives electricity a clear path up the starter cable to your battery. This needs to be done with a battery charger, not just using jumper cables connected to another car.
It's doubtful that you FOB died during it's week of non use. As long as your battery has no dead cells, it'll show 12 volts on the multimeter. That gives you no clue how many amps are left in the battery. Think of Amps as the fuel inside your battery. It's what get's used and needs refilling - just like the gas in your tank. So all the 12v tells you is that all 6 cells inside the battery are healthy and capable of accepting a full charging of Amps. (ie, your fuel tank does not have holes in it and when you fill it up the fuel will not spill all over the ground and can be filled up to it's full capacity.)
#14
I actually did hook it up the way that you mention (to a charger) but I must admit I was a little impatient with it. One reason is b/c when I took my volt meter and saw the 12V on the wire (when the charger was NOT hooked up), I basically packed it in and looked elsewhere for the issue.
By your email, would you suggest I give that another shot and allow it to charge overnight or at least for several hours? I should mention that the red light on the instrument cluster is blinking every 2 seconds...another thing that made me think that I don't have a battery issue. Thanks for the reply -
By your email, would you suggest I give that another shot and allow it to charge overnight or at least for several hours? I should mention that the red light on the instrument cluster is blinking every 2 seconds...another thing that made me think that I don't have a battery issue. Thanks for the reply -
#15
actually I use my key to lock the door a fair amount. I use it when the dog is inside because locking it that way does not arm the pressure sensors in the cabin.
#16
I actually did hook it up the way that you mention (to a charger) but I must admit I was a little impatient with it. One reason is b/c when I took my volt meter and saw the 12V on the wire (when the charger was NOT hooked up), I basically packed it in and looked elsewhere for the issue.
By your email, would you suggest I give that another shot and allow it to charge overnight or at least for several hours? I should mention that the red light on the instrument cluster is blinking every 2 seconds...another thing that made me think that I don't have a battery issue. Thanks for the reply -
By your email, would you suggest I give that another shot and allow it to charge overnight or at least for several hours? I should mention that the red light on the instrument cluster is blinking every 2 seconds...another thing that made me think that I don't have a battery issue. Thanks for the reply -
2. You can try using the key fob (and key in the door) anytime during that 30 minutes. In fact, try both every few minutes during that 30 minutes.
3. Do NOT leave it on the charger for longer than that 30 minutes. (30 minutes is more than sufficient to five the alarm receiver enough juice to receive a signal from the FOB)
4. The alarm light will blink even with only a few amps in the battery. In fact, it's basically the last electrical item to show a pulse before the battery is completely dead - so it's not a good indicator of charge state)
5. If you still have no success, then call AAA and get it towed to the dealer. You don't know that it's the FOB, and it's never a good idea to start throwing money at a problem when you're uncertain of it's origins. Better to have that money go towards solving the problem. AAA allows you to sign up and use them the same day, in the event that you don't already have AAA.
#17
ok - I'll give the charger another try in the a/m, and I'll make sure I have good connections as well. I probably tried it for 15 minutes earlier today with no luck, but I'll pay extra attention to the connections, etc. Trust me....I HOPE it's a dead battery issue - I will gladly go and spend $80 for a new battery in the morning! Closest LR dealer is an hour away
#18
I have a 97 DI that I am doing a lot of things to currently. I took a good look at my hood release cable and mechanism to see if I could possibly help you. I can look thru my grill and see the cable going into the hood release. You may be able to use a long nosed pair of needle nosed pliers and get a grip on the cable. With some luck and determination I would bet you could get the hood to open.
I have opened up the hood of an old VW like that years ago when a cute young thing was broken down on the side of I-285 northwest of Atlanta.
Give it a try,
I have opened up the hood of an old VW like that years ago when a cute young thing was broken down on the side of I-285 northwest of Atlanta.
Give it a try,
#19
Thanks for the reply - I actually fixed it last night as I was able to get the hood up after cutting the hood latch in half and pulling the inner cable with pliers. Disconnected the battery and the "super lock" issue was solved. I guess the system had to be reset, as I was able to use the key FOB again.
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