Need guidance on battery draw readings please
#1
Need guidance on battery draw readings please
Drove to work after being on charger last night. When I got ready to leave work at 5, it was dead. Jump box got me going. When I got home I checked it out pretty thoroughly as follows.
Charging 14.2
Shut it off, battery holds 12.8 Battery is a known to be good one.
Started the milliamps test with my Fluke set on 30mA scale and connected between unhooked battery ground and battery ground post
About 46.2 mA consistent draw. Barely enough to flicker a 12 volt tester
Pulled every relay and fuse in the engine compartment panel one at a time with no more than 1 or 2 mA total change
Unhooked lead to alternator. No change
Wife got home. Asked her to watch the Fluke while I pulled the fuses on the drivers side interior panel
Opened the door and it went to 400+ mA
Thought I'd hold the door switch while I pulled fuses. Silly me, it doesn't have a typical door switch, and I couldn't find it....
Closed the door. Draw stayed up around 290mA. Cycled the key and closed the door. Dropped back to 46.2mA
Opened the doors and made sure every dome light was in manual off position. Unplugged ultragauge. Cycled the key. Closed doors and it stayed at 290.
On a whim, I hooked battery ground back to battery and pulled it back off and checked draw. 27mA
Opened door and cycled key. Back to 290. Went to feed cows, gone 30 minutes or better. Still 290. Everything was off, key out of ignition, dome lights off, doors slammed. Never got it back to 27, which I suspect is approaching acceptable. I noted that cycling hood switch by hand jumps it up.
Put it on a 2 amp charge and came in for dinner. Gonna get the rave open on my tablet. (electrical section)
I'm thinking at this point its the door switches or security system. Looking for some help / guidance / been there done that, please...
Charging 14.2
Shut it off, battery holds 12.8 Battery is a known to be good one.
Started the milliamps test with my Fluke set on 30mA scale and connected between unhooked battery ground and battery ground post
About 46.2 mA consistent draw. Barely enough to flicker a 12 volt tester
Pulled every relay and fuse in the engine compartment panel one at a time with no more than 1 or 2 mA total change
Unhooked lead to alternator. No change
Wife got home. Asked her to watch the Fluke while I pulled the fuses on the drivers side interior panel
Opened the door and it went to 400+ mA
Thought I'd hold the door switch while I pulled fuses. Silly me, it doesn't have a typical door switch, and I couldn't find it....
Closed the door. Draw stayed up around 290mA. Cycled the key and closed the door. Dropped back to 46.2mA
Opened the doors and made sure every dome light was in manual off position. Unplugged ultragauge. Cycled the key. Closed doors and it stayed at 290.
On a whim, I hooked battery ground back to battery and pulled it back off and checked draw. 27mA
Opened door and cycled key. Back to 290. Went to feed cows, gone 30 minutes or better. Still 290. Everything was off, key out of ignition, dome lights off, doors slammed. Never got it back to 27, which I suspect is approaching acceptable. I noted that cycling hood switch by hand jumps it up.
Put it on a 2 amp charge and came in for dinner. Gonna get the rave open on my tablet. (electrical section)
I'm thinking at this point its the door switches or security system. Looking for some help / guidance / been there done that, please...
#2
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shanechevelle (03-27-2019)
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Only variation on milliamps readings that I find to be different in your original post was: You cycled the key and closed the door and the draw went to 46.2mA. All the other times you were at 290 after cycling the key and closing the door. Maybe try opening and closing each door without key cycling? See if anything reads different? idk. Your definitely on it. Good luck
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