No modern car after say the early 90’s going to just sit there with zero battery draw. Radio’s have constant power for memory function, digital, clock, and that’s not even considering all the ECU’s for the engine, transmission, ABS, and body. A D2 can probably go a month or a little more on a good battery before it starts to dip below 12v. On a D2 that I know is gonna sit a while I either put a charger on it or completely disconnect the battery.

 

Here's a revelation. I nearly always leave the key in it. Seems there is a key in sensor that may prolong the awareness level of the ECU. Also, tried the door locking with the fob. Only the drivers door, rear passenger door, and tailgate cycle lock / unlock with the fob. I locked them manually. I'll see if that changes anything tomorrow. Is it feasible that if they don't electrically lock and unlock that maybe those door switches are bad? I've read that faulty door switches can keep waking up the ECU while parked. Ultragauge comes on with a door opening event also so I see potential drain if this proves to be the culprit.
Key is out. Doors are all locked. Dome lights are manually off. Fuses are back in.
I know aftermarket speaker crap was done in the tailgate and understand an amp there can be a problem as well. That's next.
Love this D2. Hate the gremlins.
One thing about it, it gives one an opportunity for a hobby and to exercise your mind and your patience.

 

Are you doing the test with the meter in series? 46.2 milliamps seems like an acceptable draw. It would take several days to kill a battery with that draw. I work on jeeps for a living, and that would be close to specs for parasitic draw.

I have worked on a lot of Mercedes sprinters also and the draw spec for those is like. .070 A. Maybe try to find spec in rave.

If your battery is dying after half a day, or overnight something may be coming on. Most of the new vehicles take 10 to 20 minutes for the bus to goto sleep after draw test starts.

 

Started well last night. Battery had been on charger all day with posts disconnected from rover. Put it to sleep as described above. Not enough juice to crank this morning. I ordered an alternator a couple of days ago as a CYA, but have a hard time believing that is the source of the drain.

Guess I will pull it in the shop tomorrow and do some more in depth testing with the bonnet switch fooled and play with doors.

 

My Ultragauge doesn't do anything without KOEO or running?? Not sure why yours would power up when you open a door?? That sounds fishy. I'd definitely take the key out of the ignition when not is use. Like mentioned, Disco's will drain a battery over a short amount of time, not sure if all newer cars do the same, or if it's a LR thing. If I don't start mine up for a week, I can tell a difference with the starter cranking a tad teeny weeny bit slower. If I was to park mine for a couple weeks at a time, Id put a battery tender on it. You may want to just put a new battery in it, batteries can F you. Yeah and look for that amp

 

Be careful with your battery

When my battery went below 12 volts ... it tripped the alarm ... I put in a new battery the strongest one now I need expensive repairs and getting CEL flashing for a P0307 cylinder 7 misfire. Got a bad BCU too.


All because I left the light on ...

 

Eliminated and neatly taped up suspect previous owner wiring at speakers / amp in rear door. Removed Atlantic British stereo interface that was plugged in under passenger seat. Looks like it only fit older iPhones and I'm android anyway.

Hooked up fully charged battery for a few minutes to power everything up. Removed negative cable and hooked amp meter between cable and post again. Bonnet switch was tied down yesterday. 39mA. Opened rear door and closed it. 290mA and stayed that way. On a whim I pushed the door lock button on my key fob. Back to 39mA.
I've played with this ten ways to Sunday now, and it appears if I cycle a door and walk away I've got a substantial draw. If I push the lock button on my key fob, it drops to an acceptable level. Who understands the logic and can tell me where the issue is and what to unhook? Doesn't this narrow it down to the BCU or security system?

 

BCU or door lock actuator. need to use software that shows it live.. mine shows the passenger door opening and closing rapidly.

found out from these forums If it's a BCU issue you need, at a minimum, a used ECU and BCU from the same truck with the same features as yours. If you have secondary air and pull em from a truck without secondary. It wont sync up. Other posters have called it a "brain transplant". you also need the instrument panel if you dont want yours flashing. and whatever the odometer from the donor truck was will be your new milage.

I just found out from the dealer... all new Land Rover ECU and BCU's have been on national back order for months .. they don't have a supplier anymore .. Valeo up and quit .. he said they don't know if they will ever make them again. Nobody else made these but valeo .. That means if you have rover with a ECU BCU issue and used parts run out .. you have a 5000 lb paperweight worth scrap value. that's whats the dealer at Land Rover Pasadena CA told me a few days ago.

No ECU BCU for months. national back order. no supplier to be found , think they are gonna stop making them but not sure, Even if you could buy it from the dealer they want almost 1k

Shop said they cannot sync a used BCU to my ECU because the VIN # don't match and they can't delete or and reprogram it. am waiting for these 3 parts to arrive and praying .. if the brain transplant doesn't work - bye bye Rover.

 

I'm going to disconnect the alternator completely and let it sit for a day. Got a new one setting here...I think its going to be a door switch, but I just can't narrow it down.
This thing is just awesome if I can beat this electrical draw.
Can't believe someone else can't say, "yeah I had that and this fixed it."

 

Wtf is going on with these parasitic draws lately!? Seems like a few of us experiencing the same thing here. Been on these boards a few years and dont ever remember seeing anything about this. Now there's like 3 or 4 of us going through it. That's pretty damn weird. Please keep posting. Somebody's bound to get it worked out. I'm leaning more towards ECU / BCU water intrusion issues or ground to them with mine. Let's keep at it.