Hello all,

I have been a lurker on these forums for a while now but I am in the market for a discovery II and was looking for some advice. First, I will give you a little background to myself. I am 25 years old and looking for something with great off road capabilities. My wife and I are getting into more serious adventures and our focus doesn't do the job. I want something I can get my hands dirty with because I do miss being able to work on a vehicle which is what lead me to Land Rovers. I know whatever One I get, I will need to maintain it which is what I am looking for.

So, I have come across a listing on Craigslist for a 2002 Discovery II with 60,000 miles. The listed price is currently $2,000 and the owner states it's because the vehicle doesn't actually run. He stated the only issues are water pump and the serpentine belt have failed and it does not actually run because of these two issues.

I have asked the owner about any other issues with the engine or any electrical issues, to which he claimed the vehicle has had no issues other than these two.

Now, I am perfectly happy paying for a vehicle with these issues. But I want to know if the water pump could have lead to bigger issues. I know I won't be able to know the actual state of it until I get it inspected, but just thought I would ask for some insight on this. I just don't want to buy it then realize it's no longer the water pump but its internal etc.

Also, any advice as to what to look for or what to ask the owner when I view the vehicle on Thursday would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you!

 

Pay less and modify more. If you have the space and ability, buy one with a totally bad engine or no engine and try for an '03 or '04. Order a long block from a reputable firm like Turner engineering and install that motor with performance cam and update the entire cooling system with a Genuine 180 degree thermostat.

If you do get this truck I would look at that engine very closely, and again restore the cooling system with the 180 degree thermostat. Aside from that make sure that the front driveshaft is in good condition, and bring a scan gauge so you know they are not hiding codes or issues. If you see p1590(rough road) and no three amigos(ABS lights) then the owner has covered them up.

If this engine has overheated once or multiple times, pass.

 

If the engine doesn't run at all then the water pump and serp are not the issue. It should be able to run and drive for a minute or so at least, just long enough to not overheat it.

I'm going to have to disagree with CollieRover on a few points. If you want the facelifted model, go for an '04 because it will have CDL from the factory where as an '03 won't. If you don't care if you have the facelifted model or not, go for a '99-'00 which has the CDL, but you'll have to retrofit the CDL actuator. I'm trying to remember, I can't remember if it was only the early '00s that had the CDL or if it was all of the '00s and only some of the '01s. Somebody will come by and correct me.

Getting one with a blown engine is a great plan if you are willing to pay the upfront cost. A good cam is a great upgrade to wake it up a little and if you go new then a 4.6 is the only option worth considering. If you're willing to buy a new engine and either install it yourself or wait to have a shop install it, then by all means go that route. That said, if you can find a really clean truck that's been meticulously cared for and has already had head gaskets, oil pump, timing chain done, then that's a great option that's a little cheaper than a whole new engine, and as long as you never overheat it you don't really need to worry about slipped sleeves or head gaskets. Do a 180 stat, or even better the inline thermostat mod with a 180 Chevy thermostat, and that should keep you running cool.

Fan replacement is always a good plan. I've got a write up for a Ford electric fan (check my description) and CollieRover is using a Flex-a-lite. Some guys prefer to stick with the mechanical fan with an HD clutch and a new fan. A while back we had a number of members fans explode in a row and do quite a bit of damage which is why I recommend a new fan.

A truck with only 60k miles is a great starting point and 2k isn't bad if the problems are really only the serp and the water pump. If you want CDL, you will have to switch transfercases with either an '04 or a '99-'00, a highly recommended upgrade that I'm actually in the midst of myself.

 

Agree, unless the waterpump had a bearing/structural it should be able to start and run but would recommend running less than a minute or so.

Owner says this and that, I'd want it cranked to get an idea if the guy is straight up or a BSer. If that's all that's needed and the vehicle is in really nice shape price may be reasonable. If you can't hear it running decently walk away unless rest of it is in pristine condition.

......

 

My late 12/01 Build Kalahari sold as an early 02 has the CDL nipple on the transfer case (actually just installed an 04 CDL Linkage). It's normally mid year 02 to 03's that didn't have the CDL nipple on the transfer case.

 

I think I saw the one you were looking at on CL. It looks like it has been sitting for a while. It would be a good project though. Like Alex said, the motor should run for a little while even without a belt or water pump. Make sure it starts before you buy it.

Good luck.
I hope you find a good D2.

 

Thank you to everyone who has replied! I do agree with DiscoCam in the fact that the vehicle looks like it has been under a tarp for a while and hasn't been driven. The owner has been very interesting to talk to, simply because he gives one sentence answers to my questions, which is making me a little more hesitant on the vehicle.


I simply don't want a vehicle that has endless issues. Does anyone know of a thread on here which lists what I should look for when expecting the vehicle?

 

I think OffroadFrance had a thread of common failures and things, but I can't remember exactly what it was called. You can probably look back through his thread history and find it.

 

If you don't want a vehicle with endless issues, you don't want to buy a non-runner. It doesn't matter if it is a Rover or a Toyota.

I overpaid for my D2. It was $5500 with 90k miles, but had a full history. I still needed the $350 driveshaft, the $50 TD5 T-stat, and the $60 Ultraguage. Once I was up on maintenance, it has so far been the most reliable used car I've owned.

Now......I wouldn't mind a non-runner like that, but chances are that waterpump caused an overheat which warped the block/slipped a liner and/or blew a headgasket.

You are looking at three potential risks here:

1) Just a water pump. (what are they, $100?)
2) Water pump + Head gasket ($2200ish)
3) entire engine block ($4k+ for a top-hat lined.)

If you can snag that D2 for $1k (or even $1500), it MIGHT be worth the risk if you are an avid DIYer and D2 nut, and the rest of the car is pristine (frame, interior, etc).

If you needed a new top-hat engine block you would only be out roughly $5500-4k + your time. This is not a bad deal for what would essentially be a bullet-proof D2 when you are done. If you get lucky, you would only need the water pump.


If buying a project is NOT interesting to you, buy something with records and pay more, but minimize your potential headaches.

This vehicle is much more likely a money-pit than a bargain. That said, if I had $6k in my budget, I'd be VERY tempted to tow that think away for $1k and just do the top-hat lined engine swap.

 

I had 98 D1 parts truck with a messed up overheated engine but I could still crank it, and move it around.

If all it needed was a belt, and waterpump then those items are cheap and it should have been fixed. Most likely ran hot, and needs the engine torn down now.

If it won't run at all I'd offer 1k tops if it's in great condition everywhere else. If not keep looking. I ended up with a high mileage 224k 02 Kalahari in near mint condition for 4k. People think I'm nuts owning a LR with that many miles, but it has been very well taken care of and it runs like a new LR! It all comes down to how it's been treated! I'd drive my 224k LR anywhere.

Good luck on finding a LR, but just don't jump at the first one ya see.

On a D2 I prefer 99-02 without secondary air injection, you should get a CDL nipple on the transfer case, and if u want the 03-04 headlights you can always convert. Look for rear frame rust, pull up front carpets and check for rusty floors, drop panel under steering wheel look for rusty dash support (could mean your fuse box is damaged from clogged sunroof or leaking windshield) which can cause major electrical gremlins. Look for 3 amigo's, look for any modifications (aftermarket alarm/stero crap) I tend to walk away from those due to gremlins...

Test drive it, test all windows, locks, and 4wd.