It is not unheard of for the red/black sensor ground wires to loose their ground in the ECM.
There are 4 red/black wires in the 4th connector counting from the rear (C0635 in the Rave) on the ECM.
I have cut all mine and crimped them all together to a 14 ga wire and grounded them to a ground screw mounted below the ECM, a ground is a ground.
Mine work fine.

 

Yeah I would avoid cutting it if you don't have room to repair it. Maybe it could be cut on the other side of the firewall and you could pull it through to the other side? As long as there's room to repair it on the outside of the firewall.

 

It's a little tight under the glove box put it is easy enough to do and doing this doesn't hurt anything, the EMC is just grounding it anyway.
It just eliminates the ECM as being the grounding problem for the sensor.

It you don't want to reground all 4 wires the right front B2-S1 red/black is on pin 10 of connector C0635 as mentioned above. Or jab a straight pin thru the wire and using an alligator lead ground it.

 

Ok guys, just confirmed it. Control wire for the passenger side upstream o2 heater circuit, white/orange, pin#13 on the ecu indeed has 12v coming strait from the ecu. Tested the short wire coming from ecu plug after having cut it and tested the length of wire that is now separated which now has 0.0v. So ecu has an internal issue and I'm leaning towards that crazy solder point on the board. Thanks for helping me think this through.

 

What is your plan from here? Are you thinking about de-soldering the suspected area and separating the components? I guess at this point you don't have much to lose with the ECU. The curiosity would get the best of me with this one! lol
I would probably at least plug it in with the cover off and test the solder joint for 12v with the key on. If it did have 12v, I'd have to remove the solder and see if it still had voltage on the wire.

 

That's exactly what I'm gonna do

 

You've come this far. Might as well try and see what happens.

 

Damn it, there's not 12v at the solder spot. That sucks. Guess I'll just order a ecu

 

well i just paid a visit to the local LR specialist (not a dealer) to see if he had any bosch computers laying around that he would either let me borrow for testing purposes or buy.

However, he told me, very matter of fact, that the Land Rover ECU's are coded to the each vehicle and cannot be swapped. He said that I have to buy a new ECU from land rover, and have it coded to the rest of the computers on board the truck...

Not that i don't trust this guy, as he's pretty much the only LR specialist in town, but is there any way to avoid buying a $600 computer? They are used and cheap all over eBay but if they aren't useable how do any of them ever sell?

 

They can be reprogrammed but you will get what ever mileage is higher ECM or dash.

Range Rover key programing immobilizer after ecu swap