Need to Swap a Transfer case, few pointers please...
#1
Need to Swap a Transfer case, few pointers please...
Ladies/gents...
So my T-case has apparently decided to give up. It's howling, grinding, and spitting gear oil out all over my carport.
truck is a 2003, with 133K miles, and a GP longblock installed that runs quite well.
I have located a clean, used T-case from a 2002 right down the street from me off Craigslist from a fellow rover-head. (he has a lot of parts and is selling right now too, FYI).
I'm pretty mechanical, but not too experienced in driveline stuff. Done a few propshafts, etc, but this would be a big one for me.
I have the RAVE, and will go over procedure, but wanted to get a few things answered from the crowd if possible.
1) Weight - I can pick up the T-case, and put in my pickup bed, but what is the best way to maneuver it under there? Rolling floor jack? Seems kinda sketchy....
2) Are the oil in the T-case and the trans fluid separate systems or do I drain the transmission first?
3) What bearings/seals should I RnR when I'm doing this?
4) I'm going to try and rig the CDL to work while I'm in there - got good info on that, but I'll take more. I like the idea of an electric solution rather than a cable...but TBD.
5) Does the truck need to be on ramps for this to happen or will stock wheels let this thing out?
6) What am I forgetting?
I'll try and document this as best I can for posterity, as it seems like a semi-common issue.
Oh, and can I pressure-wash this thing with it out of the truck or will i ruin it?
So my T-case has apparently decided to give up. It's howling, grinding, and spitting gear oil out all over my carport.
truck is a 2003, with 133K miles, and a GP longblock installed that runs quite well.
I have located a clean, used T-case from a 2002 right down the street from me off Craigslist from a fellow rover-head. (he has a lot of parts and is selling right now too, FYI).
I'm pretty mechanical, but not too experienced in driveline stuff. Done a few propshafts, etc, but this would be a big one for me.
I have the RAVE, and will go over procedure, but wanted to get a few things answered from the crowd if possible.
1) Weight - I can pick up the T-case, and put in my pickup bed, but what is the best way to maneuver it under there? Rolling floor jack? Seems kinda sketchy....
2) Are the oil in the T-case and the trans fluid separate systems or do I drain the transmission first?
3) What bearings/seals should I RnR when I'm doing this?
4) I'm going to try and rig the CDL to work while I'm in there - got good info on that, but I'll take more. I like the idea of an electric solution rather than a cable...but TBD.
5) Does the truck need to be on ramps for this to happen or will stock wheels let this thing out?
6) What am I forgetting?
I'll try and document this as best I can for posterity, as it seems like a semi-common issue.
Oh, and can I pressure-wash this thing with it out of the truck or will i ruin it?
#2
See inline replies.
Ladies/gents...
So my T-case has apparently decided to give up. It's howling, grinding, and spitting gear oil out all over my carport.
truck is a 2003, with 133K miles, and a GP longblock installed that runs quite well.
I have located a clean, used T-case from a 2002 right down the street from me off Craigslist from a fellow rover-head. (he has a lot of parts and is selling right now too, FYI).
I'm pretty mechanical, but not too experienced in driveline stuff. Done a few propshafts, etc, but this would be a big one for me.
I have the RAVE, and will go over procedure, but wanted to get a few things answered from the crowd if possible.
1) Weight - I can pick up the T-case, and put in my pickup bed, but what is the best way to maneuver it under there? Rolling floor jack? Seems kinda sketchy....
Easiest way is the LT230 adapter and transmission jack
2) Are the oil in the T-case and the trans fluid separate systems or do I drain the transmission first?
Separate systems. Transmission takes ATF and LT230 takes EP 90 or EP 85w140. You may loose some form transmission, but no need to drain it.
Don't forget to check and change the LT230 gear lube on schedule.
3) What bearings/seals should I RnR when I'm doing this?
None, unless you're having issues.
4) I'm going to try and rig the CDL to work while I'm in there - got good info on that, but I'll take more. I like the idea of an electric solution rather than a cable...but TBD.
5) Does the truck need to be on ramps for this to happen or will stock wheels let this thing out?
If you're using a transmission jack and the adapter you'll want at least jack stands.
6) What am I forgetting?
I'll try and document this as best I can for posterity, as it seems like a semi-common issue.
Oh, and can I pressure-wash this thing with it out of the truck or will i ruin it?
So my T-case has apparently decided to give up. It's howling, grinding, and spitting gear oil out all over my carport.
truck is a 2003, with 133K miles, and a GP longblock installed that runs quite well.
I have located a clean, used T-case from a 2002 right down the street from me off Craigslist from a fellow rover-head. (he has a lot of parts and is selling right now too, FYI).
I'm pretty mechanical, but not too experienced in driveline stuff. Done a few propshafts, etc, but this would be a big one for me.
I have the RAVE, and will go over procedure, but wanted to get a few things answered from the crowd if possible.
1) Weight - I can pick up the T-case, and put in my pickup bed, but what is the best way to maneuver it under there? Rolling floor jack? Seems kinda sketchy....
Easiest way is the LT230 adapter and transmission jack
2) Are the oil in the T-case and the trans fluid separate systems or do I drain the transmission first?
Separate systems. Transmission takes ATF and LT230 takes EP 90 or EP 85w140. You may loose some form transmission, but no need to drain it.
Don't forget to check and change the LT230 gear lube on schedule.
3) What bearings/seals should I RnR when I'm doing this?
None, unless you're having issues.
4) I'm going to try and rig the CDL to work while I'm in there - got good info on that, but I'll take more. I like the idea of an electric solution rather than a cable...but TBD.
5) Does the truck need to be on ramps for this to happen or will stock wheels let this thing out?
If you're using a transmission jack and the adapter you'll want at least jack stands.
6) What am I forgetting?
I'll try and document this as best I can for posterity, as it seems like a semi-common issue.
Oh, and can I pressure-wash this thing with it out of the truck or will i ruin it?
Last edited by antichrist; 08-13-2015 at 06:11 PM.
#3
If you're dropping out the transfer case, which weighs 55kgs, I'd recommend a bolt on jig which is simple to fabricate and bolts the the inspection sump plate. I have a motorcycle scissor jack to which it's bolted onto and the whole assembly slides along the underneath whilst the truck is on 3 ton axle stands. Alternatively, find a tame gorilla to assist in lifting it down. My jig and jack only requires one person but remember to ensure the axle stands are set sufficiently high to remove the LT230 and rig from under the truck otherwise you are stuffed and will need to attempt to raise the truck higher afterwards at more risk to safety. Have fun, good luck.
#4
I did this recently and used a harbor freight transmission jack. This picture should give you an idea of how to hold it. This worked but only after some harrowing adjustments. When it comes free it is a heavy beast (laying on your side).
I did have to jack mine up to roll it out. This was a stock height truck with the side steps.
There is one bolt on the right hand by the frame that seems impossible. Go over the frame.
Take off the e brake FIRST. Mine shouldn't be on there. Big mistake unless your new one has an e brake on it.
Disconnect EVERYTHING before you lower it at all. Again, I learned that the hard way.
I did have to jack mine up to roll it out. This was a stock height truck with the side steps.
There is one bolt on the right hand by the frame that seems impossible. Go over the frame.
Take off the e brake FIRST. Mine shouldn't be on there. Big mistake unless your new one has an e brake on it.
Disconnect EVERYTHING before you lower it at all. Again, I learned that the hard way.
Last edited by Charlie_V; 08-13-2015 at 06:57 PM.
#6
Remove the brake drum.
Then, there is a plate with a sandwich ring at the back of the t case inline with the trans spline.
Remove plate and ring , then pull out the gear in the case which is on the trans spline. Note the orientation so you don't put it in backwards.
Unbolt and t case will basically fall off.
Remove said gear from replacement t case, note orientation.
Use trans jack or bench press into position, it's much lighter now without the brake and gear.
Bolt down. Slide gear through back onto trans spline. Button up plate and sandwich adaptor.
Then, there is a plate with a sandwich ring at the back of the t case inline with the trans spline.
Remove plate and ring , then pull out the gear in the case which is on the trans spline. Note the orientation so you don't put it in backwards.
Unbolt and t case will basically fall off.
Remove said gear from replacement t case, note orientation.
Use trans jack or bench press into position, it's much lighter now without the brake and gear.
Bolt down. Slide gear through back onto trans spline. Button up plate and sandwich adaptor.
#7
One thing I forgot to mention is that using a transmission jack and the adapter from the RAVE manual (it's not in the DII manual, use the D1 manual, Service repair no - 41.10.25) makes it easier to make sure you don't damage the LT230 input seal.
Also, alignment is easier if you use a couple of bolts with the heads cut off, tapered slightly and smoothed.
The are one or two locating collars between the transmission and transfer. Make sure that if one remains in the transmission that the corresponding one isn't in your replacement LT230.
Also, alignment is easier if you use a couple of bolts with the heads cut off, tapered slightly and smoothed.
The are one or two locating collars between the transmission and transfer. Make sure that if one remains in the transmission that the corresponding one isn't in your replacement LT230.
#8
I did this recently and used a harbor freight transmission jack. This picture should give you an idea of how to hold it. This worked but only after some harrowing adjustments. When it comes free it is a heavy beast (laying on your side).
I did have to jack mine up to roll it out. This was a stock height truck with the side steps.
There is one bolt on the right hand by the frame that seems impossible. Go over the frame.
Take off the e brake FIRST. Mine shouldn't be on there. Big mistake unless your new one has an e brake on it.
Disconnect EVERYTHING before you lower it at all. Again, I learned that the hard way.
I did have to jack mine up to roll it out. This was a stock height truck with the side steps.
There is one bolt on the right hand by the frame that seems impossible. Go over the frame.
Take off the e brake FIRST. Mine shouldn't be on there. Big mistake unless your new one has an e brake on it.
Disconnect EVERYTHING before you lower it at all. Again, I learned that the hard way.
This is my jack but with the angled jig bolted onto to it. It skates along the floor OK either on a greasy board or on tube rollers.
Résultats Google Recherche d'images correspondant à http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/51CLi7Y3eoL._SX355_.jpg
#9
If you remove the gear inside the t case there are no alignment issues. The trans spline has plenty of room to insert in the hole, then you slide the gear over the spline once the 2 are bolted together. I was amazed how easy it was.
I can't take credit for the technique, a knowledgable friend told me how to do it.
I can't take credit for the technique, a knowledgable friend told me how to do it.
#10
Nice job Charlie_V as it's not a lot of fun scrabbling around on the floor underneath the truck. Did you buy the jack or hire it?
This is my jack but with the angled jig bolted onto to it. It skates along the floor OK either on a greasy board or on tube rollers.
Résultats Google Recherche d'images correspondant à http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/51CLi7Y3eoL._SX355_.jpg
This is my jack but with the angled jig bolted onto to it. It skates along the floor OK either on a greasy board or on tube rollers.
Résultats Google Recherche d'images correspondant à http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/51CLi7Y3eoL._SX355_.jpg
ORFRANCE I like yours better. When I lowered the transmission I thought my little jack was going to dump the whole thing on the ground.
ATL, I remember when you were having misfires just a few weeks after I'd been through the same thing. Looks like we are on similar trajectories, rover wise... I can't tell if we are ascending or descending. Haha
I wish I'd paid attention to gear alignment. I didn't. Abran am I screwed?! Well, no... first I haven't done my truck yet so I'm not screwed. Hahahh. I am going to drop MY tcase to swap a bigger transmission in hp24 over current hp22). The pictures are my buddy's replacement tcase so maybe he is screwed.
I don't fully understand the alignment issue. Can you expand? Are you referring to mating them back together?
Last edited by Charlie_V; 08-14-2015 at 01:08 PM.