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New '04 Disco owner - general questions

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Old Aug 26, 2010 | 08:41 PM
  #11  
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I might have to put that on the xmas list
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Last edited by sloan74; Mar 24, 2011 at 07:46 PM.
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Old Aug 26, 2010 | 09:06 PM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by Disco Mike
First, unless your mechanics are willing to pay for a tranny replacement, from a broken front drive shaft, I would make plans to replace it yesterday, cause they nearly always fail, usually with no warming.
Your options are having your shaft rebuild with all new greasable u-joints and a new centering call, usually around $250, buy a American rebuilt drive shaft for around or a new replacement from Rover for $800, which will still have the same problem as your currently have.

Welcome back mike it's good to hear from you...
 
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Old Aug 28, 2010 | 03:53 PM
  #13  
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Wow thanks, okay I really wish I wasnt always busy and could figure out how to do all this myself but it looks like my mechanic will be having a very lucrative year *ha*

does anyone have experience with this driveshaft?
http://www.4046363636.com/

Can you recommend a site to refer my mechanic to to order the correct ( best ) one? I can't supply him with parts ( liability issue) but I can guide him in the right direction...

BossHog- what does the crank position sensor do? Why 800 miles until the vole chip started working?

Thanks!
 
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Old Aug 28, 2010 | 04:18 PM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by devildollnyc
does anyone have experience with this driveshaft?
http://www.4046363636.com/
I like that!! Mine was replaced by the PO (I think he said last year)..... unfortunately with the factory original So I've been looking around. Think I'll call "Mac" and ask him about it. His website doesn't say anything about a warranty......


Eric
 
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Old Aug 29, 2010 | 11:23 AM
  #15  
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Originally Posted by devildollnyc
BossHog- what does the crank position sensor do? Why 800 miles until the vole chip started working?
  • The crank position sensor reads your motors rpm. A good indication that its falty is your tach will read 0(but not always). I think it reads small magnets on your fly wheel when it spins. Also your truck will continue to die after warmed up. Then cools off it starts up fine.
  • I don't know why the Volo Chip takes 800 miles to work. That is what I heard from two other people on the forum before I bought mine and found it to be true. Basically the 4th tank of gas it kicks in and you start getting 18 to 19 on the hwy, depending how new your O2 sensors are and the general health of your Rover. It claims that it dynamically reprograms your ECM. It works and does not effect my idle. They offer a money back guarantee. I wish I would have had that for the last 3 years. I could have saved $1000s on gas.
 
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Old Aug 30, 2010 | 07:53 AM
  #16  
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FYI & your pocketbook:
Just checked the Volo chip website - They're on sale for $59.95
 
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Old Aug 30, 2010 | 09:06 AM
  #17  
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I paid about $80 for parts to replace my U joints and centering ball, plus about 2 hours of fiddling to replace them. Buy the parts and take your drive shaft or truck to a drive line shop and have them do it for you, don't throw the extra money away for a new drive shaft - unless you are into serious offroading and need a stronger shaft.
 
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Old Aug 30, 2010 | 09:07 AM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by devildollnyc
FYI & your pocketbook:
Just checked the Volo chip website - They're on sale for $59.95
There is a newer chip out for $89.
 
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Old Aug 30, 2010 | 12:22 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by Bundu
Buy the parts and take your drive shaft or truck to a drive line shop and have them do it for you, don't throw the extra money away for a new drive shaft - unless you are into serious offroading and need a stronger shaft.
x2

Your looking at 200 bucks total if you do it this way.

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Last edited by sloan74; Mar 24, 2011 at 07:47 PM.
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Old Aug 30, 2010 | 06:29 PM
  #20  
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I found a drive line shop in Brooklyn that gets good reviews (Unless someone on the forum can recommend another shop in one of the boroughs, my mechanic is in PA)

Is this a simple enough replacement on the Disco that I don't need to worry about using an Import/Rover person (I totally trust my mechanic but he's 90 miles away & I can't get the car to him this week and plan on going up to MA next week and all your talk has me a little worried - I'd rather spend my $$ on antiques not a new tranny!)

Also what drive shaft/U joints/etc you recommend I buy (provided they let me BYOP)

I'd love to say I'll be out there tearing up the trails but sadly my life is too busy - some mud, some snow, thats probably the extent of it for now...

Thanks guys for not making a girl feel like a dufus!
(I've had trucks/4x4's in the past but Japanese & American - 4runner/Trooper/Grand Waggoneer/CJ7 and not as much need to know info!)
 
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