Advance Auto is a good place to get the parts:
3 x PDQ 1-0005 @ $13
1 x Neapco 7-0081NG @ $29
Don't tell them it is for a Land Rover, they will tell you it does not fit your car - don't believe them.

 

Are they trying to get more $$ for the LR parts or just that they don't know?

This is the drive shaft I'll need to grease with every oil change (5K miles), correct?

 

They may or may not have a listing for the LR u-joints, and they definitely will not have a listing for the centering ball. So the parts guys/girls may tell you that the part numbers supplied by us here on the forum will not fit your vehicle, but that is just because they have nothing in their catalogs, and are saying that from the liability standpoint. "If a part number isn't shown to fit by application, there may be problems" (Even though hundreds of people have used these part numbers in rebuilding their drive shafts, myself included).

Yes, you will need to grease all u-joints at each oil change until fresh clean grease comes out of each seal.

 

I picked up 4 Neapco1-0005 at Advanced here locally.

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...FZpN5QodoXcymQ

Enter your zip and there you go.

I had to drive to 2 different stores but I wanted 4 because I am going to do the rear shaft as well.

Ordered the ball joint over at rockauto.com. Do a part number search of "617", then select PRECISION from the dropdown list. Will return "PRECISION Part # 617 Replacement Ball Kit; Includes Ball, Cup Seal, and Spring
Category: Universal Joint Ball Kit"

80 bucks total for me for the 5 parts.
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Mercury Marquis

 

Here is the center joint Bundu listed,

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_Double-Cardan-CV-Ball-Seat-Repair-Kit-Neapco_20270076-P_2074_R|GRPUCVSAMS____

If I would of known Advanced had it I would of just picked one up with the u-joints versus ordering it from rockauto

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IPAD GAMES

 

Thanks Sloan -
I was actually going to ask if I should have the rear done as well - is it as problematic as the front since it isn't going to "Dry out" as fast due to the proximity to the engine?

I'm going to call the drive shaft place now - hoping they'll let me BYOP or order what I ask them to...

 

It certainly wouldn't hurt to change the one rear joint at the same time, money allowing, but it isn't as failure prone as the front joints. I replaced my three front joints last year, and am working up the motivation to do the rear joint before winter.

 

The rear drive shaft has one U joint and a rubber coupling. The U joint can be greased, the rubber coupling needs to be replaced if it is cracked.
http://www.roverparts.com/Parts/TVF100010.cfm

 

Nah the rear will not dry out. But for 12 bucks I figured I would go ahead and get another joint and do both shafts. Rig has 119k miles, so new joints in both figured to make the most sense. Gonna have my buddy do em both at the same time. I don't have the tools nor the motivation. I will remove the shafts and give them to him, but that's about it for me, heck I might just have him drive the rig to his shop and remove the shafts for a few extra bucks.....I don't like working on my back in 95 degree heat...hehe
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Ford granada (europe) picture

 

Thanks for all the suggestions/input.

I ended up buying a rebuilt, grease-able shaft from MAC @ Roverland in Buford, GA.
Super helpful, super knowledgeable guy. It's getting installed by my local mechanic along with new front brakes & rotors and an oil change.
I'm definitely dropping some $$$ but worth the peace of mind and still a lot cheaper than a new tranny if the drive shaft were to fail while driving!

Hopefully this will be my last big expense of 2010 (The purchase of the Disco being the biggest, and hopefully Super unleaded will stay under $3/gal that being the second -haha!)

Have a safe & labor-free Labor day!