Greetings!

First off I'm dieselward I misspelled my own name when I registered
Can an admin fix this for me?

We just got a 2004 LRD2 SE7 119k...Actually we went to get a 540i and ended up getting this...and I know nothing about them...(wife's decision).

The D2 looked to be in really good shape inside and out...only thing to note was a high pitch sound coming from engine bay at idle. Sounded like it was coming from a hose that was on the drivers side on top of the engine. I recall moving the hose and it altered the sound. (Hose looks fairly new might have just been the engine dressing)

Both head gaskets had been replaced at 50k...repaired at dealer.
How long could this repair last?

I also noticed a few other items driving it the 300+ mile trip home.

Seems to be no illumination on the odometer or the clock?

Pressed the sport button which seemed to function fine...but made a sound after one stop when I tried to enable it...sounded like a vacuum pump on a locker that had a bad hose. Enabled it again this morning with no issues.

Other than the above the thing rides and drives pretty good for this type of vehicle in my option. Handling was good and 70mph+ on the highway seemed like no sweat.

I haven't looked yet...but I think it lacks ACE and the rear Air springs..which I think is a blessing...simplicity.

I plan on checking/changing all fluids and flushing the cooling system and checking for clogs...and replacing the front u-joints with greaseable ones if it hasn't been done already.

I plan on getting a separate temp gauge for the coolant too...I'll see if I can find some info on here as where to put the probe.

Any comments or questions are welcomed...I'm new to LR's and want to make this a positive owning experience.

Thanks!

dw

 

Welcome! Be sure and do the 60K mi tune-up (sticky). That'll get you well acquainted with the vehicle and ensure it won't leave you stranded. Next, Savannah will chime in and tell you to replace the front prop shaft (if it hasn't already) with a serviceable one, and install a more accurate temperature reading device (like ultragauge) so you can have a more reliable temp reading. Apparently there's quite a wide margin for what the factory gauge shows as normal. Good luck!

 

It's a bit controversial, but I recommend the inline thermostat mod. My truck sits between 175-185 all the time, while the stock thermo allows 40° swings that probly contribute to block/head gasket issues.

 

It is easier to install a scanner or Ultra Gauge, which views the raw data sent from the coolant sensor, without the processing of the ECU, which dumbs it down to 50% for 130F - 230F. UG gives you alarm points, voltage monitor, etc.

In the past there was just the inline thermostat mod, now you can also select the 180F soft spring warm weather stat to improve things as well. Fits the stock plumbing. I would give the in-line an edge as it does not depend on mixing cold and hot coolant.

 

Can I trouble you for a part # on that inline T-stat?

 

Motorad 439-180 Thermostat : Amazon.com : Automotive

 

Actually, that's the stock thermo.

Here's the inline mod:
Inline Thermostat - LAND ROVER CLUB V.I.

I used a dremel with a cutoff wheel to cut the fan shroud.

 

Perfect...thanks! Dremel...now with 1002 uses!

 

The cutoff wheel on the dremel has saved my *** *many* times. Cutting and sanding/grinding are all I use it for.

For instance, one memorable occasion where I'd completely rounded a shock absorber nut on my Dodge van, and it was impossible to get any tool in the area to get a grip on it or cut it. Finally, I thought of my dremel. Took me a while to cut thru the shock's plunger rod, and I couldn't see what I was doing at all. But I got that thing out.

Or recently when I disassembled my Disco's ignition cylinder and ground down the tumblers so my new spare keys would work.

I could give you more examples. It's one of those tools that is 100 times as useful as you'd expect.

 

No it's not, read the reviews.