I did a bit of searching but most of the answers applied to the Discovery I or the RR.

I have a new-to-me 2000 Disco II that has a slow drain on the battery. I disconnected the battery and trickle charged it back to "normal". That may have been my first problem. When I went to hook up the battery the alarm immediately started to sound at the mere touch to the terminal.

I simply want to disarm the alarm so I can fix the other little things before I tag and get it inspected.

1) Is the immobilizer bypass the fix here?
2) The 1515 thing?
3) Is there not just a fuse for the alarm system?
4) Does the alarm (horn specifically) stop after a certain amount of time?

I do not have a key FOB, just a key.

TIA

 

Do nothing with the alarm system or you will have more problems then you can imagine.
If you replace the battery, just lock and unlock the door.

 

HA! That worked, but it still would not start...will check the voltage and load test the battery tomorrow....

Thanks for the quick easy solution!

 

Hold down the hood alarm switch also when doing all this.

 

UPDATE: Interstate battery charged up and load tested perfect. Put it in and it starts up and runs just fine now. But, for giggles I have been measuring the voltage every morning and night (not running and running).

Parked: 12.62V Running: 14.4V

Now, here is the catch, I have left it UNLOCKED for the last few days (no alarm) and there is NO apparent drain.

SOOO, back to the original question. Is there no way of disabling the alarm at all? I really dont need it right now and just locking it is suffice.

 

You are not understanding what you are doing. Your system is just fine, the voltage at idle and when not running are supposed to be different because when running your alternator is bring up the voltage into the 14 range, shut the engine off and you get just the normal 12.5 plus reading of what the battery has stored.
Leave your alarm alone and go enjoy your truck.

 

That's not what I posted, Mike. I know how a charging system works. What I dont understand YET is how the alarms work on these things.

When the truck is parked, engine off, alarm on, locked, there is a drain on the battery.
When the truck is parked, engine off, alarm off, unlocked, there is NOT a drain on the battery.

I cant enjoy the truck if it wont start in the morning. Maybe this is why I got it so cheap

 

My truck draws like 20 milliamps when off. Some of that is alarm, some is clock, radio memory keeper, etc. If your meter will read amps, you could meter what is gong on after truck is off, and unplug fuses to narrow it down. It is designed to be hard to disable, otherwise most of us would have tossed it by now. I unplugged my hood switch just to not have to deal with the possibility of problems when jumping off.

How big is your drain in amps or parts of amps?

 

Don't worry about the parasitic drain.
As Savannah has stated - 20ma.

If your battery is say a 50 amp hour battery.
That means - it can stand a 1 amp draw for 50 hours.

Ok, so 1 amp divided by 20ma = 50.

50 times 50 hours = 2500 hours

2500 hours /24hours/day

104 days..

3.4 months.

I think you'll drive it once a month at least.

Is how long your battery will last.
So, don't mess with it.
Not broken.
Do not fix

 

The above math makes sense, but unfortunately the "parasitic" drain is killing the battery in less than 48 hours....<groan>...I have a cheap multimeter but could not get any consistent readings....going to grab the good one from work this afternoon.