if i want to buy a complete new engine so where i can find same
kindly advice me

 

So this is interesting.
One thing I've noticed lately, is the tick/knock/whatever you want to call it typically shows up with fresh oil.
I'm running 15w40 RotellaT (Dino version).
I find myself adding about a qt every 1500 miles (i change every 3000).

I noticed on my last "top off" that almost immediately after I added a qt that the tick appeared. About 50-100 miles down later it was gone, and hasen't come back yet.

My "kick the tick in the nuts" method for the last few oil changes has been to do a flush prior to change, and replace a qt. of oil with MMO (i'm trying all the snake oil I can to get rid of it).

I'm due for a change this week, if the weather holds up, and I'm wondering if I ran the heavier weight oil if that might solve the issue?

One other observation about this tick/knock.

My normal operating altitude is about 700ft. On my last trip to Telluride (8-10000 ft) there was no ticking/knocking. Recently on my trip to Big Bend (6-8000 ft) there was no ticking/knocking either.

I keep hearing "its lifters, its lifters" I'm wondering if the altitude has anything to do with it? And/or something with that fresh oil? So maybe the heavier weight might help with it?

As best I can tell the heads have never been done (122k on the ticker). I'm loosing a little coolant, but not burning it. Not mixing in the oil, just not exactly sure where its going. I think it might be seeping out at the front of #2 cylinder... no power loss, no smoke, no signs other then topping up the coolant and oil every so often.

Any ideas on the heavier weight oil and the altitude? what about the fresh vs. dirty oil thing?

Thanks.

 

I'm not sure what you mean here but I think you want to know where you can find a brand new 4.6 engine correct? I do not know about outside the US but I know that DAP enterprise (a land rover specialist) deals with a manufacturer who still makes new 4.6 engines. D.A.P. Enterprises LLC - Everything for your Land Rover
another option is for you to do some research. Im willing to bet that you could find new 4.6 engines manufactured in somewhere in Great Britain or maybe even in Germany. Its hard to say man, I dont know much about getting parts outside the US. Good luck

 

If the knock is from the lower part of the engine - then have the lower end bearing replaced. This is actually not too hard to do.

IF you don't correct a lower end knock, then you may spin a bearing which increases the clearance and then it may throw a rod out the side of the engine.

Best to deal with lower end knocks.

 

you should do an oil preasue test before you do anything else, you need to check your preasure when it first starts and after it is up to temperture. i may be something as simple as a cracked oil pump fear (quite common)

 

You can buy a brand new short block from the UK shipped to your door for under 5,000USD and then you switch over your heads, intake, etc.
That is probably going to be your best bet.
If you want to go that route I would just drive it with the tick while you wait for your new engine block to show up.
If you want to repair this engine you are possibly looking at as much in parts and labor as buying a new engine block and still not fixing the tick.

 

I own a 2003 disco II 4.6. I bought the truck from a dealer there was no knock at the testing of the truck. They dropped the truck off,, but on the way the dealer stopped and put some gas in the tank, when he arrived, well TIC TIC like some one dropped a ball bearing in the motor. The dealer was no help when I questioned them about the sounds. I tried a few things, but changing the fuel to Shell 87oct , stopped the ball bearing sounds. Gone for weeks??? English temperament or air fuel regulator?

 

Detonation, the dealer filled it up with the cheapest gas he could get.
Mine acts up if I put anything less the 92 octane in it.

 

Great Plains Rovers

 

Bottom line, get the tick diagnosed. Could be anything from oil pump, lifters, exhaust leak to loose liners. Don't throw money at a new engine unless you need to.

And if you need to, I'd go with someone close to you. Most of the suggestions here (GPR and such) are stateside. You'll save $hipping and have fewer warranty complications the closer you buy to home.