New engine = new radiator???
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Recovery Vehicle
Joined: May 2012
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New engine = new radiator???
Installing a new engine and shop recommended having radiator piped. Called a local shop who quoted $270-300, if it could be done (due to the plastic tank). Given that this is at the high end cost of a new radiator, my questions are:
1. W/65K miles on the truck, do I need to do anything but a flush?
2. If yes, what radiator should I buy (preferably one without plastic)?
Thanks
1. W/65K miles on the truck, do I need to do anything but a flush?
2. If yes, what radiator should I buy (preferably one without plastic)?
Thanks
Winching
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 595
Likes: 25
From: Philadelphia,Pa
IMHO, for the amount of money you are spending with the new engine why would you NOT but in a NEW radiator. Call Justin at Lucky 8, see what he has to offer. You will not find one without the plastic,if I am not mistaken. Its okay they last a good long time.
Super Moderator
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 16,322
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From: Savannah Georgia
Won't find them without plastic unless custom high dollar.
Most shops won't touch rod out on an older plastic tank unit because of the brittle nature.
You can get a new one for $150 and up. There have been recent posts about the Silla brand. Even nicer ones are in the $300 range.
What to watch out for is the built in screw boss in the plastic tank. Wrong screw, or mechanic that is too strong and the leaking crack is pretty much PITA to repair.
Flush won't get the calcium build up. Shows up as fin temperature top to bottom in vertical line is cooler by 10F or more on bottom rows clogged up. So if an external tests shows no clog, the flush may be a good idea, go back with 50/50 premix green, forget the Dexcool sludge builder.
A 180 F soft spring thermostat would be a great idea also. And an Ultra Gauge to watch things, by now you must have realized that Rover points at 50% on the heat gauge, until just before the Colonel delivers "extra crispy".
Most shops won't touch rod out on an older plastic tank unit because of the brittle nature.
You can get a new one for $150 and up. There have been recent posts about the Silla brand. Even nicer ones are in the $300 range.
What to watch out for is the built in screw boss in the plastic tank. Wrong screw, or mechanic that is too strong and the leaking crack is pretty much PITA to repair.
Flush won't get the calcium build up. Shows up as fin temperature top to bottom in vertical line is cooler by 10F or more on bottom rows clogged up. So if an external tests shows no clog, the flush may be a good idea, go back with 50/50 premix green, forget the Dexcool sludge builder.
A 180 F soft spring thermostat would be a great idea also. And an Ultra Gauge to watch things, by now you must have realized that Rover points at 50% on the heat gauge, until just before the Colonel delivers "extra crispy".
Thread Starter
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Recovery Vehicle
Joined: May 2012
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In response to Jeffh (by the time I responded, there were 2 more posts):
The reason: one I have works great! I've not had an overheat incident yet. That logic would put me in the poor house...nevertheless, if that's standard procedure for an engine swap, I'll bite the bullet. But if my radiator has another 40K mi in it, I'd rather wait.
The reason: one I have works great! I've not had an overheat incident yet. That logic would put me in the poor house...nevertheless, if that's standard procedure for an engine swap, I'll bite the bullet. But if my radiator has another 40K mi in it, I'd rather wait.
Last edited by Dan7; Apr 23, 2013 at 11:52 AM. Reason: by the time I responded, there were 2 more posts
Thread Starter
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Recovery Vehicle
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What water pump (stock or aftermarket)? Where'd you get it? Was it an upgrade??
Thread Starter
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Recovery Vehicle
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 863
Likes: 18
Won't find them without plastic unless custom high dollar.
Most shops won't touch rod out on an older plastic tank unit because of the brittle nature.
You can get a new one for $150 and up. There have been recent posts about the Silla brand. Even nicer ones are in the $300 range.
What to watch out for is the built in screw boss in the plastic tank. Wrong screw, or mechanic that is too strong and the leaking crack is pretty much PITA to repair.
Flush won't get the calcium build up. Shows up as fin temperature top to bottom in vertical line is cooler by 10F or more on bottom rows clogged up. So if an external tests shows no clog, the flush may be a good idea, go back with 50/50 premix green, forget the Dexcool sludge builder.
A 180 F soft spring thermostat would be a great idea also. And an Ultra Gauge to watch things, by now you must have realized that Rover points at 50% on the heat gauge, until just before the Colonel delivers "extra crispy".
Most shops won't touch rod out on an older plastic tank unit because of the brittle nature.
You can get a new one for $150 and up. There have been recent posts about the Silla brand. Even nicer ones are in the $300 range.
What to watch out for is the built in screw boss in the plastic tank. Wrong screw, or mechanic that is too strong and the leaking crack is pretty much PITA to repair.
Flush won't get the calcium build up. Shows up as fin temperature top to bottom in vertical line is cooler by 10F or more on bottom rows clogged up. So if an external tests shows no clog, the flush may be a good idea, go back with 50/50 premix green, forget the Dexcool sludge builder.
A 180 F soft spring thermostat would be a great idea also. And an Ultra Gauge to watch things, by now you must have realized that Rover points at 50% on the heat gauge, until just before the Colonel delivers "extra crispy".
Winching
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 595
Likes: 25
From: Philadelphia,Pa
Bryan,
I know this **** gets expensive. I guess my thoughts are that with an older rad. you have scale build up. You go and put in a nice new engine and then after "flushing" the old rad you will end up with some Sludge, or scale still there now it is going into the new engine. Is it enough to cause an issue more than likely not. But for another 200-300 hundred you have a new engine with a new cooling system. to me that is piece of mind worthy of a few hundred more when you have already spent THOUSANDS. In either case you are still going to have a new engine that will be sweet.
I know this **** gets expensive. I guess my thoughts are that with an older rad. you have scale build up. You go and put in a nice new engine and then after "flushing" the old rad you will end up with some Sludge, or scale still there now it is going into the new engine. Is it enough to cause an issue more than likely not. But for another 200-300 hundred you have a new engine with a new cooling system. to me that is piece of mind worthy of a few hundred more when you have already spent THOUSANDS. In either case you are still going to have a new engine that will be sweet.
Rock Crawling
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 285
Likes: 0
Jeff, I don't disagree at all. I spent so much money on this thing I almost quit counting (luckily I got the Disco cheap bc the motor was already blown). Quite honestly, I didn't even think that a new radiator should even be in consideration. May have been a mistake on my part. I may consider swapping mine at some point. In any case, so far so good.