New Drive Shaft Contemplation
#1
New Drive Shaft Contemplation
I just "discovered" that both front drive shafts on my two D2s are running dry and un-lubed.
I'm trying to decide whether to fork over the cash for these: http://www.4xshaft.com/index.html
..or to just have mine rebuilt.
Can anyone offer any advice? If it were just one drive shaft, it would be a no brainer.. $350 to fix my problem.
But, to do it for both would be $700, and that's another thousand rounds of .308, or almost a freaking AR15.
Anyone got any suggestions for me?
Thanks guys,
Pat
I'm trying to decide whether to fork over the cash for these: http://www.4xshaft.com/index.html
..or to just have mine rebuilt.
Can anyone offer any advice? If it were just one drive shaft, it would be a no brainer.. $350 to fix my problem.
But, to do it for both would be $700, and that's another thousand rounds of .308, or almost a freaking AR15.
Anyone got any suggestions for me?
Thanks guys,
Pat
#2
Diy!
Get six u-joints, 2 centering ball kits, "rent" a slide hammer kit and u-joint tool from Autozone or similar, buy a snap ring plier set and cut and paste this link in a new window.
http://static.scribd.com/docs/tkatf9...IAL_VIEW=width
Total cost for both will be less than $200.00!
I did mine for about $75.00 but I already had the pliers. Do a search here for u-joints and you will find a plethora of great information including part numbers and cross reference numbers to tell the parts counter guy when they tell you that they don't carry anything.
The u-joints I used were the Neapco 1-0005. The same as in a 1993 Volvo 240.
The centering ball kit is a Precision 617.
Use the extra $500 to buy a decent reloading press, dies, primers, some powder, brass and boat tails and you will still be able to put 1000 rounds through your .308!
http://static.scribd.com/docs/tkatf9...IAL_VIEW=width
Total cost for both will be less than $200.00!
I did mine for about $75.00 but I already had the pliers. Do a search here for u-joints and you will find a plethora of great information including part numbers and cross reference numbers to tell the parts counter guy when they tell you that they don't carry anything.
The u-joints I used were the Neapco 1-0005. The same as in a 1993 Volvo 240.
The centering ball kit is a Precision 617.
Use the extra $500 to buy a decent reloading press, dies, primers, some powder, brass and boat tails and you will still be able to put 1000 rounds through your .308!
#4
#5
hey mike i have a 95 disco with a 2.5 " lift and want to replace the rotoflex with u joint and might as well do the front shaft as well since ive seen so many horror stories. im pretty mechanicly inclined im not looking to spend to much $$$ would it be wise to do the rear shaft conversion my self and just buy a new front shaft from tom wood? any knowledge would be great
#7
i have heard the front shaft likes to break on lifted discos and smash a hole in the side of the transmission. plus i have some 32" swampers and see alot of trail time, at least 3 times a week, last thing i want is to have to replace the trans. the roto-flex seems like a great idea for normal use but i hardly see much normal use. need to replace the coupling anyways due to cracking, figured i might as well beef it up now. idk im just trying to be proactive with replacing weaknesses. it just dosnt seem right having a peice of rubber connecting my drivetrain
#8
I'm pretty mechanical, Mike... I mean, I don't know how one rates himself, but I do brakes and plugs and wires and stuff. My biggest job so far was removing and replacing a 700r4 transmission in a 1992 GMC, but it took me two weeks and a lot of reading to do it. And, I sort of messed up the way the dipstick went in... but I didn't leak, and it worked fine afterwards..
ANWAY-
Please do send me the pdf! You should have my email address, but please let me know if you need it.
Thanks, Mike. I might just try it myself... I just don't want to mess it up.
ANWAY-
Please do send me the pdf! You should have my email address, but please let me know if you need it.
Thanks, Mike. I might just try it myself... I just don't want to mess it up.
#9
i have heard the front shaft likes to break on lifted discos and smash a hole in the side of the transmission. plus i have some 32" swampers and see alot of trail time, at least 3 times a week, last thing i want is to have to replace the trans. the roto-flex seems like a great idea for normal use but i hardly see much normal use. need to replace the coupling anyways due to cracking, figured i might as well beef it up now. idk im just trying to be proactive with replacing weaknesses. it just dosnt seem right having a peice of rubber connecting my drivetrain