I just "discovered" that both front drive shafts on my two D2s are running dry and un-lubed.

I'm trying to decide whether to fork over the cash for these: http://www.4xshaft.com/index.html

..or to just have mine rebuilt.

Can anyone offer any advice? If it were just one drive shaft, it would be a no brainer.. $350 to fix my problem.

But, to do it for both would be $700, and that's another thousand rounds of .308, or almost a freaking AR15.

Anyone got any suggestions for me?

Thanks guys,

Pat

 

Get six u-joints, 2 centering ball kits, "rent" a slide hammer kit and u-joint tool from Autozone or similar, buy a snap ring plier set and cut and paste this link in a new window.


http://static.scribd.com/docs/tkatf9...IAL_VIEW=width

Total cost for both will be less than $200.00!

I did mine for about $75.00 but I already had the pliers. Do a search here for u-joints and you will find a plethora of great information including part numbers and cross reference numbers to tell the parts counter guy when they tell you that they don't carry anything.
The u-joints I used were the Neapco 1-0005. The same as in a 1993 Volvo 240.
The centering ball kit is a Precision 617.

Use the extra $500 to buy a decent reloading press, dies, primers, some powder, brass and boat tails and you will still be able to put 1000 rounds through your .308!

 

I used PDQ u-joints from autozone because they have the grease zerks in an end cap instead of the cross. Much easier to grease the double cardon.

 

If you are at all mechanical, and want to save some money, I'll send you a PDF with all the instructions and pictures.
Replace all 4 u-joints and check and replace your roto flex replacing them if they are showing cracks.

 

hey mike i have a 95 disco with a 2.5 " lift and want to replace the rotoflex with u joint and might as well do the front shaft as well since ive seen so many horror stories. im pretty mechanicly inclined im not looking to spend to much $$$ would it be wise to do the rear shaft conversion my self and just buy a new front shaft from tom wood? any knowledge would be great

 

D1's have no drive shaft issues except being a little week. Do you lube the u-joints 2 times a year?
Why do you want to convert to a rear u-joint, didn't your rotoflex treat you well?

 

i have heard the front shaft likes to break on lifted discos and smash a hole in the side of the transmission. plus i have some 32" swampers and see alot of trail time, at least 3 times a week, last thing i want is to have to replace the trans. the roto-flex seems like a great idea for normal use but i hardly see much normal use. need to replace the coupling anyways due to cracking, figured i might as well beef it up now. idk im just trying to be proactive with replacing weaknesses. it just dosnt seem right having a peice of rubber connecting my drivetrain

 

I'm pretty mechanical, Mike... I mean, I don't know how one rates himself, but I do brakes and plugs and wires and stuff. My biggest job so far was removing and replacing a 700r4 transmission in a 1992 GMC, but it took me two weeks and a lot of reading to do it. And, I sort of messed up the way the dipstick went in... but I didn't leak, and it worked fine afterwards..

ANWAY-

Please do send me the pdf! You should have my email address, but please let me know if you need it.

Thanks, Mike. I might just try it myself... I just don't want to mess it up.

 

The roto-flex is good for up to 3" of lift. Even under extreme off-road use they will last. At 3" your drive line angle gets too severe.

 

allrighty i gues ill just buy a new rotoflex in case mine breaks..... im still worried about the front drive shaft though.....