Hello Everyone,

My 2004 Disco failed its yearly safety and emissions test required by the State of Utah. In order to get it to pass, I need new front rotors. While I am at it I thought I would replace and upgrade all the front brake components.

Here are my new rotors from rockauto.com


Here are my new Bosch pads from British Parts of Utah


Here are my new calipers - also from bputah.com



I have to admit, I've never done this before. So my question is, am I missing something? Do I have all the needed hardware and parts? Are there any issues I need to be aware of? I can't start pulling parts of my Disco without approval from the forum.

Thanks in advance,

 

you will need brake fluid when you to bleed the brakes. Also get brake grease to lube the caliper slide pins most like already done since you got new calipers) and lube where the pads contact the caliper

Brake Lubricants: Brake and Front End

 

It's pretty easy,
-put on JACK STANDS (please don't die)
-Wheel off (dur, keep wheel around, makes a great seat)
-clamp the brake hoses (either get the right tool or use some needle nose vice grips with some fuel line over the ends to keep the teeth from chewing up the rubber)
-old caliper off (oyur new calipers should have come with carriers so no need to separate, just take the 2 caliper bolts off and you're set save the banjo bolt washers if you didnt get new ones with your new calipers)
-rotor off (a dead blow hammer and an impact driver for that damned screw might be useful here)
-new rotor on (I smear anti-seize all over the hub and hub ring.
-new caliper on (dont forget the banjo bolt washers! and i'd threadlock the bolts, I had one fall out on me after doing calipers with no loctite)
-unbolt one of the guide bolts and put in new pads (grease ALL points where the pads touch anything, new calipers should have grease but if you want add more SILICON GREASE, do not use other greases they just get baked and dry up and cause the pins to bind)
-repeat for all 4 and bleed brakes (I do the traditional RR, LR, RF, LF bleed but the rave says something else, bleed until clean fluid with fresh brand new DOT4 fluid, shouldn't take more than a quart)
-wheels back on
-TEST BEFORE TAKING ON ROAD (did I really have to mention this one?)

 

Hey thank you very much you guys. This is the sort of friendly and extremely useful advice that makes this forum the very best source for Land Rover know how.

Thanks - I'm doing the brakes today - I'll let you know how it goes

 

Yes, you do. So many people change brake components and just back out of the garage without pumping the brakes a few times, it scares the hell out of me!

 

Impact driver from Harbor freight is reasonable and really helps in some cases.

 

Or a drill bit, that works pretty well too if you completely strip it.

 

Any suggestions on how to loose the bolts that hold the caliper. I left them soaking with PB blaster overnight, tried to wedge the biggest breaker bar I could in the wheel well, but no dice. This was on the front right wheel. If I had a car on the lift and I was underneath it I could probably get more leverage, but on jack stands with a few inches of clearance before hitting the suspension bits with the breaker bar, I could not loosen the bottom bolt.

 

Are you referring to the front brake caliper bracket? 19mm 12 point socket? I soaked mine, put the 12 point on, hit the wrench sideways with a good sized mallet. A lot of people have issues with those bolts. Or are you referring to the 12mm head or so little bolts that hold the caliper itself on?

 

So what I was trying to loosen was the 19mm 12point bolt. I was following the instructions found here:

https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...tor-job-52326/

Is there a way to change the rotors that doesn't involve undoing the 19mm bolts?

I tried the mallet sideways approach with no luck, but I can try again.