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While swapping out my radiator, water pump, and converting to an inline t-stat I decided to replace my front main seal because I had oil leaking from there. Removed the old seal, replaced with a new OEM seal with some grease on the crank, and used a large socket and deadblow to seat it flush with the front cover. Well, now it’s leaking more oil than before. I didn’t notice a substantial amount of scoring on the crank. It did have some burnt on oil on it that I cleaned off, but still felt pretty smooth in that area. I also cleaned what I thought at the time was just a lot of oil build up around the area from it leaking for so long. It was thick like grease, but not rubbery like RTV. I’m starting to wonder if it wasn’t build up and a previous owner greased the area to reduce a leak.
I haven’t disassembled it yet, and from below it’s tough to tell if there’s seepage from around the seal, or my cleaning of the build up exposed a crack in the front cover.
Anything wrong with my process? I’ve read (now in hindsight) that leaving the seal seated a little shallow may have been better so there’s a different part of the crank for it to seal against. True? Any other hacks/tips?
Side note: pry bar into the side bell housing inspection cover above the starter (may be a plug in it…mine happens to be missing) was dead simple to hold the crank while removing and tightening the crank pulley. An impact gun then made quick work of moving the bolt
While swapping out my radiator, water pump, and converting to an inline t-stat I decided to replace my front main seal because I had oil leaking from there. Removed the old seal, replaced with a new OEM seal with some grease on the crank, and used a large socket and deadblow to seat it flush with the front cover. Well, now it’s leaking more oil than before. I didn’t notice a substantial amount of scoring on the crank. It did have some burnt on oil on it that I cleaned off, but still felt pretty smooth in that area. I also cleaned what I thought at the time was just a lot of oil build up around the area from it leaking for so long. It was thick like grease, but not rubbery like RTV. I’m starting to wonder if it wasn’t build up and a previous owner greased the area to reduce a leak.
I haven’t disassembled it yet, and from below it’s tough to tell if there’s seepage from around the seal, or my cleaning of the build up exposed a crack in the front cover.
Anything wrong with my process? I’ve read (now in hindsight) that leaving the seal seated a little shallow may have been better so there’s a different part of the crank for it to seal against. True? Any other hacks/tips?
Side note: pry bar into the side bell housing inspection cover above the starter (may be a plug in it…mine happens to be missing) was dead simple to hold the crank while removing and tightening the crank pulley. An impact gun then made quick work of moving the bolt
I would 100% get a speedy sleeve and put it on the crank. It doesn't take much scoring to cause a leak there.
- remove crank pulley
- remove front main seal
- clean crank
- install Speedi Sleeve with flange toward block and push on far enough so flange is deep enough for new seal to seat fully in.
- silicone sealant around seal OD (Extinct’s suggestion)
- install new seal
- replace crank pulley & torque to spec
I usually put the flange towards the pulley but should not make a difference which way.
Sleeve goes on the crankshaft, right? With the flange toward the pulley would that mean the seal goes in first?
…OR does the Speedi Sleeve go on the crank pulley? Sorry for seemingly basic questions, I’m not looking at it and don’t remember exactly what seats into what to get a visual for where the sleeve fits into the equation.
- remove crank pulley
- remove front main seal
- clean crank
- install Speedi Sleeve with flange toward block and push on far enough so flange is deep enough for new seal to seat fully in.
- silicone sealant around seal OD (Extinct’s suggestion)
- install new seal
- replace crank pulley & torque to spec
Sound right?
only want to do this one more time. Ha!
Almost. The flange on the speedi sleeve goes toward the pulley, not the block. Then you peel the flange off using snips.