Thank you.

 

Nice looking gauge, clean install. Don't suppose you would consider posting some more detail on the install procedure?

DRW

 

I was working on the install and something told me to snap a pic, lol.

Ok, I started with getting the vent out to see if there was enough room above it to cut the hole and install the gauge. The vent is removed in the same manner as the buttons above the coin try or the clock and door lock button. Take two old credit cards and insert one on each side of the vent. the right side goes right in, but the left side takes some time because you have to get the card to push over the top of four small nubs on the vent which I believe are there to locate it in place. the vent itsself is held in by four metal clips that you slide the cards over and then pull the vent out.

After I got the vent out I saw that the channel is bent down before entering the heating ducts so you have about an inch and a half of space to play with under the dash. The dash is also thick at the top so even with the gauge completely sunk in it only protrudes about a 1/2 of an inch.

Next I drilled a hole using a hole saw to insert the gauge. Now I few pointers on that for a clean hole without ripping the dash material. First I ran a hole saw the size of the gauge not the bezel. I started by marking the spot for the pilot hole with the bit in the hole saw. I made sure the edge of the hole would be about 1/2 inch above the top of the vent so it would be close to me but the gauge would not be in the area that the venting would hit it. I drilled a 3/8 inch pilot hole with a regular drill bit in the spot I marked. Then I put the hole saw bit in that hole. In order to not tear the dash material I ran the drill in reverse until the dash cover was cut and then proceeded to cut through on a slight angle that I thought matched the angled bezel that came with the gauge with the drill reset to forward. The dash material is soft so you do not need much force and you should go slow so you don't punch through to hard and damage something.

Now, the hole will be very snug for the gauge and that is good. With a round file I adjusted the fit so the gauge will sit cleanly in the hole at a nice angle. I used the metal retainer part that came with the gauge to secure it in place. This was done by cutting down the sides of the part to about 1/4 inch and then just tightening the nuts that put pressure on it.

The rest was wiring. I pulled the clock and buttons so it was easier to run the signal wire to the sender via the passenger side of the truck. There is a rubber part under the SAI in the firewall I just pushed through and then ran the wire down to the sender. All of the other wiring can be done very easy because the gauge sits directly above the fuse panel under the steering column. I used a "Add-a-circuit" to tap the power for the lighting and power and then just connected to a ground and the signal wire.

Connection to the sender is easy to, just run a ground wire and the signal wire as far as the electrical. The sender that comes with the gauge will need an adapter if you are planning on using the port above the oil filter mounting. You can get then cheap here: eBay - New & used electronics, cars, apparel, collectibles, sporting goods & more at low prices

That's about it. I like the gauge a lot and it has a very OEM feel to it. You can change the color from white to green during install and adjust the brightness too.

--Mike

 

For critical monitoring I much prefer analog gauges.
Install them clocked so that your desired reading is at the 12 o'clock position and you don't have to read them to know if you're in a good range or not. You'll pick it up with your peripheral vision plus you won't have to process the data, i.e., 12 = good is easier to process.

 

The install looks clean and fabulous! How easy is to to read the gauge though? It seems like there might be significant reflection in the glass of the gauge as the angLe seems quite accute. Don't get me wrong, no complaints as I think I want to do this sometime when the wife is far far away . I just want to make sure is as easily readable as possible.

 

It is easy to read unless it gets hit by direct sunlight. It has enough of an angle that 80% of the time I can see it just fine. I had to take the compromise for esthetic purposes. I really did not want a racing type gauge mounted on the pillar and the only other mounting place, down by the CDL shifter, is already taken by my Ultra Gauge. The gauge itself is very easy to read, only one number so you know instantly and I like the pressure light band around the outside so it is not boring either.

You could always change the angle of the gauge as well. I have seen single pod mounts that could be added instead of the angled bezel that comes with it. This would put the gauge straight up like the dash gauges.

--Mike

 

You guys are forgetting the most likely place to mount the gages, in the top center of the dash.

Universal Triple Gauge Console Dash Pod

Oil PSI, volts and coolant temp, or trans temp, oil temp, whatever.

 

Of center console install? Anyone mounted in overhead in a cockpit configuration? That's what I'm contemplating...

DRW

 

I was not raelly thinking of cutting into the dash but it does look good.
I'm thinking of going with this EVo unit. Looking at their site and they offer an adapter which screws in between the oil filter and mount looks easy but almost $40. Wondering if it's just simpler. also they note 2 different adapters one for a long shaft and the other i guess regular. I'm also wondering if there will be room because I'm planning on using the Mann filter which is much longer then the reg. Filter. Any thoughts?

 

Use this adapter in the unused oil port above the filter. Its a much more cost effective solution:

eBay - New & used electronics, cars, apparel, collectibles, sporting goods & more at low prices

I am not sure if you can use a Mann filter, which I have, and the sandwich plate due to the space needed.

--Mike