New HG Day!
#11
good job so far man. When you pull the rocker shafts and pushrods out, make sure to keep them in order. It will cause a nice tick if you don't. Gotta think that they are in a sense married to the rocker and lifter after the wear unless you plan on replacing both. When you put the bolts in, I used a fine artist paint brush and lightly brushed motor oil on the threads. You don't want to create hydrolock. Keep up the good work and keep us posted
#12
I did keep everything in order. I just poked some holes in a cardboard box and used that to organize the rods and the rocker arms.
What is this hydrolock? I rinsed the bolt holes out with brake parts cleaner and used a 410 shotgun cleaning rod because that's what I had lying around. I cleaned up the mess with qtips. Then I dipped the bolt in oil and tightened them up. I didn't appear to have any issues.
What is this hydrolock? I rinsed the bolt holes out with brake parts cleaner and used a 410 shotgun cleaning rod because that's what I had lying around. I cleaned up the mess with qtips. Then I dipped the bolt in oil and tightened them up. I didn't appear to have any issues.
#13
I did keep everything in order. I just poked some holes in a cardboard box and used that to organize the rods and the rocker arms.
What is this hydrolock? I rinsed the bolt holes out with brake parts cleaner and used a 410 shotgun cleaning rod because that's what I had lying around. I cleaned up the mess with qtips. Then I dipped the bolt in oil and tightened them up. I didn't appear to have any issues.
What is this hydrolock? I rinsed the bolt holes out with brake parts cleaner and used a 410 shotgun cleaning rod because that's what I had lying around. I cleaned up the mess with qtips. Then I dipped the bolt in oil and tightened them up. I didn't appear to have any issues.
#14
So tomorrow I'm going to put the valley pan gasket and the lower intake manifold back on. Hopefully reconnect the exhaust manifolds as well. I can start re-installing everything, but I will still have to pull the front-cover back off once the replacement comes in. So I'm trying to get as much done around that as possible.
When I was tearing everything out, I completely removed the coil pack and all the spark plug wires. What would be the best point to re-install the coil pack? Which step would give me the best freedom to reach those bolts. If it weren't for the custom work I would be all over that coil relo project I've seen others doing.
When I was tearing everything out, I completely removed the coil pack and all the spark plug wires. What would be the best point to re-install the coil pack? Which step would give me the best freedom to reach those bolts. If it weren't for the custom work I would be all over that coil relo project I've seen others doing.
#15
So tomorrow I'm going to put the valley pan gasket and the lower intake manifold back on. Hopefully reconnect the exhaust manifolds as well. I can start re-installing everything, but I will still have to pull the front-cover back off once the replacement comes in. So I'm trying to get as much done around that as possible.
When I was tearing everything out, I completely removed the coil pack and all the spark plug wires. What would be the best point to re-install the coil pack? Which step would give me the best freedom to reach those bolts. If it weren't for the custom work I would be all over that coil relo project I've seen others doing.
When I was tearing everything out, I completely removed the coil pack and all the spark plug wires. What would be the best point to re-install the coil pack? Which step would give me the best freedom to reach those bolts. If it weren't for the custom work I would be all over that coil relo project I've seen others doing.
#16
I don't know how far along you are....
But there's a small hole on your rockers...make sure these holes are open or you will have a ticking noise.
It's where the pushrod meets the rocker.
Also, can you post a pic of the rtv you're using?
But there's a small hole on your rockers...make sure these holes are open or you will have a ticking noise.
It's where the pushrod meets the rocker.
Also, can you post a pic of the rtv you're using?
Last edited by shanechevelle; 02-04-2017 at 04:49 AM.
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robert.juric (02-04-2017)
#17
It may be just the pictures...
But it looks like that engine is being assembled extremely dry. You should always use some sort of assembly oil (STP, Honey Oil, a type of lube that sticks to wear items until oil pressure is obtained, etc), while assembling. Especially, over the tappets (cam end, journals), ends of each push rod and rocker arm assembly. If you've been using any type of degreaser/cleaner in the valley area, I'd be sure to dose the cam bearings with lube/oil before start up.
Usually, even after using a good quality assembly lube, I liberally dump a quart of oil over everything (rockers, valley, cam). Then after assembling the rest of the top end, drain the oil and replace filter, refill with fresh oil before start up.
Lube on initial start up is crucial, especially whenever the inner parts of the engine have been exposed to outside elements. Once the engine is completely reassembled, there is reasonable protection from outside influences.
Brian.
But it looks like that engine is being assembled extremely dry. You should always use some sort of assembly oil (STP, Honey Oil, a type of lube that sticks to wear items until oil pressure is obtained, etc), while assembling. Especially, over the tappets (cam end, journals), ends of each push rod and rocker arm assembly. If you've been using any type of degreaser/cleaner in the valley area, I'd be sure to dose the cam bearings with lube/oil before start up.
Usually, even after using a good quality assembly lube, I liberally dump a quart of oil over everything (rockers, valley, cam). Then after assembling the rest of the top end, drain the oil and replace filter, refill with fresh oil before start up.
Lube on initial start up is crucial, especially whenever the inner parts of the engine have been exposed to outside elements. Once the engine is completely reassembled, there is reasonable protection from outside influences.
Brian.
#18
It may be just the pictures...
But it looks like that engine is being assembled extremely dry. You should always use some sort of assembly oil (STP, Honey Oil, a type of lube that sticks to wear items until oil pressure is obtained, etc), while assembling. Especially, over the tappets (cam end, journals), ends of each push rod and rocker arm assembly. If you've been using any type of degreaser/cleaner in the valley area, I'd be sure to dose the cam bearings with lube/oil before start up.
Usually, even after using a good quality assembly lube, I liberally dump a quart of oil over everything (rockers, valley, cam). Then after assembling the rest of the top end, drain the oil and replace filter, refill with fresh oil before start up.
Lube on initial start up is crucial, especially whenever the inner parts of the engine have been exposed to outside elements. Once the engine is completely reassembled, there is reasonable protection from outside influences.
Brian.
But it looks like that engine is being assembled extremely dry. You should always use some sort of assembly oil (STP, Honey Oil, a type of lube that sticks to wear items until oil pressure is obtained, etc), while assembling. Especially, over the tappets (cam end, journals), ends of each push rod and rocker arm assembly. If you've been using any type of degreaser/cleaner in the valley area, I'd be sure to dose the cam bearings with lube/oil before start up.
Usually, even after using a good quality assembly lube, I liberally dump a quart of oil over everything (rockers, valley, cam). Then after assembling the rest of the top end, drain the oil and replace filter, refill with fresh oil before start up.
Lube on initial start up is crucial, especially whenever the inner parts of the engine have been exposed to outside elements. Once the engine is completely reassembled, there is reasonable protection from outside influences.
Brian.
so so true Brian. Even the rave States ton makes sure to lubricate the pushrods before reinstillation and lubricate the rocker shafts after instillation. I looked at it as added protection. I did that then filled the oil level to full and then ran for a few then drain and refilled. (I did drain all the old oil out first before I started it the first time but that way it was a little piece of mind for myself)
#20
I dipped both end of the push rods in engine oil when I reassembled. After reading your advice, should I remove the rocker assembly and re-lube the ends with an assembly oil? I wasn't sure how to lube the springs and actual rockers on the rocker assembly.
I used a blue permatex (ultrablue I think) when I assembled the front cover/waterpump and oil pan. However I have to pull all that back off and I was going to replace it with Permatex UltraBlack.
This has been my first venture into an engine so I appreciate all the input!
I used a blue permatex (ultrablue I think) when I assembled the front cover/waterpump and oil pan. However I have to pull all that back off and I was going to replace it with Permatex UltraBlack.
This has been my first venture into an engine so I appreciate all the input!