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More progress today. I got the lower intake manifold and the exhaust manifolds torqued down. I had a near cross thread experience which really had me worried. I was able to remove the lower manifold and get the bolt sorted out. I then put the manifold back on and torqued it down. I hope this won't cause any leaks in the future. I used Permatex Ultrablack in the notches and under the rubber gasket before I put on the valley pan gasket. I put the antisieze on the exhaust manifold bolts. L
I also had had to remove the field rail to fit my torque wrench on the manifold bolts. In that process I lost one of the injector clips, no clue where it is yet.
I spent a good 30 min scouring the engine bay with a couple of different magnet setups to find a rogue clip. If you didn't have the lower manifold covered you better run a magnet down the intake vessels. The 2 dowels which locate the upper unit to lower mani' are espc known to fall in there so it's best to keep tabs on all the parts & not disregard anything you may belive to be inconsequence.
Once I re-install the coil pack and put the valve covers on, does anyone see any reason why I couldn't put the hood back on? My wife is getting tired of losing her spot in the garage so the Rover is getting booted.
Few more questions while I'm waiting for parts to arrive. My kit came with a new main seal for the front cover. When should I install that? Before I reinstall the front cover, or after the front cover has been re-attached?
How the heck to do you torque the crankshaft pulley? I remember what it took to get it off and I'm not sure how to tighten it back.
Finally how big a PITA is the power steering system? My pump and hoses are a mess and I'm kind of dreading adding them back to the (now) clean block. Cost is also an issue.
Few more questions while I'm waiting for parts to arrive. My kit came with a new main seal for the front cover. When should I install that? Before I reinstall the front cover, or after the front cover has been re-attached?
How the heck to do you torque the crankshaft pulley? I remember what it took to get it off and I'm not sure how to tighten it back.
Finally how big a PITA is the power steering system? My pump and hoses are a mess and I'm kind of dreading adding them back to the (now) clean block. Cost is also an issue.
you can get a rebuild kit at a decent price for the power steering pump and gear box but the most expensive is the dang lines
Few more questions while I'm waiting for parts to arrive. My kit came with a new main seal for the front cover. When should I install that? Before I reinstall the front cover, or after the front cover has been re-attached?
How the heck to do you torque the crankshaft pulley? I remember what it took to get it off and I'm not sure how to tighten it back.
Finally how big a PITA is the power steering system? My pump and hoses are a mess and I'm kind of dreading adding them back to the (now) clean block. Cost is also an issue.
Rebuilding the PS pump is fun but you would have to order a gasket & seal kit from EBay; you also have to install a new bearing on the PS pump output shaft. You would pay $35 for the seal kit & another $20 for a quality bearing. But don't you dare re-seal the pump without replacing the bearing too. But spare no expense on the output bearing & don't buy it from NAPA. Get a brand name from the internet or your local bearing retailer. Your orig' pump will be good as the day it was from the factory; just clean the mating surfaces with mineral spirit or rubbing alcohol before you bolt up that main gasket or it will leak. Be detailed. Don't buy a cheap/aftermarket PS pump either. I got lucky as I bought an OEM freshly rebuilt from a local high end parts recycler for $75 but that's a once-in-a lifetime deal. The junkyard wants $75 for any old 15-yr old pump & you are still in the same place you started.
You can get another set of hoses anywhere from EBay to Miami Rover to forum members. Shop around til you find the price that makes you pull the trigger.
The crank pulley nut can be torqued by blocking the crank with a 2x4 cut to fit between a lobe & the ground. The pulley has 2 threaded holes where you fasten a bar/tool with 10mm bolts but that takes fabrication if you can't get the spec' tool; I tried holding the pulley first but the bolts kept bending because I didn't fashion my custom tool properly but the 2x4 got it done. Replacing the crank seal is good; always leaks oil from the orig seal. Take your time and use proper tools, don't scrape or gouge the seal race, put the balancer back with keyway lined up. I read stories where people just hammer the pulley back in and screw everything up; I just take my time, read the Internet, ask questions from people I trust but never get in a hurry and be methodical.
Well I had put the oil pan back on, but I have to replace the front cover so I'll remember to do the front cover, crank pulley, THEN the oil pan.
Where did you find the bearing for the PS pump? I checked LRcat and didn't find a part number and it wasn't immediately listed when I looked at Lucky8 or eBay.
Well I had put the oil pan back on, but I have to replace the front cover so I'll remember to do the front cover, crank pulley, THEN the oil pan.
Where did you find the bearing for the PS pump? I checked LRcat and didn't find a part number and it wasn't immediately listed when I looked at Lucky8 or eBay.
I looked for days but the info isn't readily available. I came across a thread on Discoweb; a member that partook stated that he was in the business of rebuilding the D2 PS pumps so I asked him about the bearing. He wasn't very forthcoming but eventually sent me this: "It's an sfk 9158." I believe he meant SKF9158
At the same time I started a post on this site and here is the info that stemmed from it: "Bearing is shown as 15mmID X 42mmOD X 13mmWD which is a 6302rs bearing."
I haven't actually rebuilt my original just yet since its not a pressing matter but I will be soon, otherwise I would let you know exactly what is required. I just know that the output bearing was faulting on my other pump, which worked great, but the pulley felt slightly awkward & was progressively going to get worse if I didn't address it.
Rebuilding the PS pump is fun but you would have to order a gasket & seal kit from EBay; you also have to install a new bearing on the PS pump output shaft. You would pay $35 for the seal kit & another $20 for a quality bearing. But don't you dare re-seal the pump without replacing the bearing too. But spare no expense on the output bearing & don't buy it from NAPA. Get a brand name from the internet or your local bearing retailer. Your orig' pump will be good as the day it was from the factory; just clean the mating surfaces with mineral spirit or rubbing alcohol before you bolt up that main gasket or it will leak. Be detailed. Don't buy a cheap/aftermarket PS pump either. I got lucky as I bought an OEM freshly rebuilt from a local high end parts recycler for $75 but that's a once-in-a lifetime deal. The junkyard wants $75 for any old 15-yr old pump & you are still in the same place you started.
You can get another set of hoses anywhere from EBay to Miami Rover to forum members. Shop around til you find the price that makes you pull the trigger.
The crank pulley nut can be torqued by blocking the crank with a 2x4 cut to fit between a lobe & the ground. The pulley has 2 threaded holes where you fasten a bar/tool with 10mm bolts but that takes fabrication if you can't get the spec' tool; I tried holding the pulley first but the bolts kept bending because I didn't fashion my custom tool properly but the 2x4 got it done. Replacing the crank seal is good; always leaks oil from the orig seal. Take your time and use proper tools, don't scrape or gouge the seal race, put the balancer back with keyway lined up. I read stories where people just hammer the pulley back in and screw everything up; I just take my time, read the Internet, ask questions from people I trust but never get in a hurry and be methodical.
Why would you tell him not to buy the bearing from NAPA?
This is bad info...oh wait...
Because I mentioned it...
Why did I mention it?
Because its what the PROFESSIONALS do when they have a part they need to replicate. Can you go to autozone and do this? Advance auto? Noooo...NAPA is, at least ours, far superior when it comes to finding things to get your vehicle back on the road.
What's even worse, is my post was backed up by another member !
Then...you post that someone else gave you the number...the exact thing which we posted for you to do...and now you come here and bad mouth the information that was given to you?
How about this?
Originally Posted by chubbs878
You are telling me that you can charge an auto battery through the starter? Never heard that 1 before...
No kidding ! If you've ever changed a starter, you should know that a battery +pos lead goes there...did you know you can also START your truck there too?
And this...
Originally Posted by chubbs878
You actually apologized to that douche?
Don't mistake the opposite end of bipolar disorder for genuine concern. After that idiot addressed my post like he knows my truck better than I do he bacame non-existent.
This was directed to me...what character.
Why? Because I, like others, can do certain things, like bleed a rovers cooling system without the need for all these mods, that have the same opportunity to fail just like the original setup...for a 10 degree drop which actually can harm your truck and ruin exhaust components.
Like using a motor scope to look into your radiator before changing out a perfectly good rad? Is that bad advice? Cause I've done it for a couple people and proved that their rad isn't clogged.
Believe it or not, mechanics is somewhat of a science. Engineers create blue prints, electricians create schematics, if every truck is made pretty much the same, its very possible to troubleshoot a vehicle just by hearing the details, people do it all the time...hence this and other forums.
Originally Posted by chubbs878
happy to report that I haven't needed to work on my truck since Sunday. My buddy lent me his OEM LR fan clutch so no fan/cooling problems since installing that; it was like 5 or 6 brand new Import Direct HD units part #2991 from O'reilly Auto Parts that have a manufacturing defect. I was driving myself crazy looking at my belt drive & everything associated with it. After replacing the water-pump, PS pump, belt-tensioner pulley, AC comp' bearing, idler pulley bearing, having the alternator bench tested....it turned out to be a whole run of bad viscous clutch units. SOAB!
Why not just TEST the fan clutch before changing all these parts? Why are you buying aftermarket if my NAPA suggestion was bad because it isn't brand name, when it actually is really high quality parts and brand name? You may not get the OEM bearing there, but you will get another companies version of the same part, AND that part may actually OUTLAST the OEM, had it happen already.
Originally Posted by chubbs878
Next you are going to post pictures of extending/rerouting the electrical connections for the coil packs? This is a detailed, professional-looking modification. I would probably replicate this if it wasn't for my constantly having to repair or replace something. I can't even go pick up my upgraded driveshafts and switch the rear pinion to a U-joint type because something breaks down just about every day. Fresh top-end on a solid (for now) engine that I can't run because of all these junky parts. I haven't decided if I'm going to crush my truck or get it sold to my worst enemy.
So are the original parts junky? Why is stuff breaking down? Why do you constantly have to repair something? Why change stuff that's not that bad?
02-12-2017, 06:30 AM
