There is the equivalents for what rave calls for

 

Above is a screen shot of the equivalents for sealants in the rave manual. You can just pour oil over the rocker arms and springs. Personally after I assembled mine, I poured about a quart over each side and then rotated the engine and did the same again. Hope those substitutes help out. The craziest substitute for me was the loctite 648 (green one) on the oil dipstick tube where it comes into contact with the block. I'm so used to seeing an o ring there

 

If you prime the oil system without the ignition and injectors firing you will be fine without removing the rocker shafts again. Engine rpm while cranking shouldn't damage anything before oil gets to it, but if it fires and revs dry then you could do several thousand miles worth of damage in seconds.

even with priming the oil there is considerable damage done every time you cold start. Even the lightest of engine oils is far to thick to adequately flow at ambient temperatures. I always prime my motor after oil changes for 20-30 seconds. Off and on so you don't overheat the starter of course.

 

If you covered the push rod ends, then you should be fine just pouring some oil over the rockers, cam and tappets. Plus, if you prime it as described by KingKoopa...this will help too.

Good luck,

Brian.

 

Hate to throw more sealant info into the ring...but this is my favorite sealant for any aluminum engine part. Never used it before, until it was recommended by the Cummins dealership. We'd been having issues with the steel front cover leaking on 5.9/6.7's, where they meet the aluminum gear train housing...and this sealant stopped all issues in their tracks. All other sealants we had tried never seemed to work well with the two different alloys, being that they react differently to temperature changes.

https://www.permatex.com/products/ga...-gasket-maker/

Use it on all of my IC Maxforce aluminum engine mating surfaces, too.

Granted, most areas on LR engines are aluminum to aluminum....I'd still recommend it.

Just my 0.02.

Brian.

 

learn something new everyday

 

I imagine I could unplug the spark wires to stop the ignition but how do you stop the injectors, unplug each individually or is there a more simple way to prime the oil system?

 

remove fuel pump relay.

 

Most sealants aren't resistant to oil.

The reason I asked the OP about the sealant he used is because I did some research on sealant. The blue stuff he used will not keep his pan from leaking.


I was a shop foreman in 2013 in charge of rebuild of 119 hwmmv's. The sealant that we used didn't stop the oil pans from leaking. I did research, including talking to head chemists at permatex.
The key ingredient is any form of oxine, or oxane. If you look at the cheaper sealants they don't contain this chemical.

 

More progress today. I got the lower intake manifold and the exhaust manifolds torqued down. I had a near cross thread experience which really had me worried. I was able to remove the lower manifold and get the bolt sorted out. I then put the manifold back on and torqued it down. I hope this won't cause any leaks in the future. I used Permatex Ultrablack in the notches and under the rubber gasket before I put on the valley pan gasket. I put the antisieze on the exhaust manifold bolts. L

I also had had to remove the field rail to fit my torque wrench on the manifold bolts. In that process I lost one of the injector clips, no clue where it is yet.