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Old Feb 23, 2017 | 10:24 AM
  #41  
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shanechevelle please don't hijack threads and start a new one about your love affair with chubbs878.
......
 
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Old Feb 23, 2017 | 11:16 AM
  #42  
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my advice is don't buy your bearing from NAPA. I had 3 of them that were so poorly manufactured it wouldn't even support the 80mm idler pulley; the motion wasn't smooth after being pressed into the housing. this is the 6304 double seal model. I finally had to get my money back and buy the bearing from a bearing-specific retailer not far from my office.

I would not have spec' addressed NAPA if I hadn't just recently wasted several days messing with these sketchy, over-priced bearings. They charge $18.00 for the black double-sealed bearings that you see at Fastenal for $2.00; very disappointing AND alarming.


I really didn't mean for this discussion to focus on NAPA in particular, I just have negative experiences each time I use them so I feel obligated to make others aware.
 

Last edited by chubbs878; Feb 23, 2017 at 12:22 PM.
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Old Feb 23, 2017 | 12:06 PM
  #43  
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From: NE PA
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Originally Posted by number9
shanechevelle please don't hijack threads and start a new one about your love affair with chubbs878.
......
Not my love affair, he has a bad habit of calling people names and giving bad advice e because he doesn't really know what he's doing.

You make a valid point, I will no longer ruin the Op thread, and I'm surely not going to waste my military paid time running my maintenance shop on the guy who posted above me because he can't pick out a bearing at NAPA made by one of the best bearing companies in the world since they have MULTIPLE brands to choose from.


Back to the thread!
 
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Old Feb 23, 2017 | 08:54 PM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by robert.juric
Few more questions while I'm waiting for parts to arrive. My kit came with a new main seal for the front cover. When should I install that? Before I reinstall the front cover, or after the front cover has been re-attached?

How the heck to do you torque the crankshaft pulley? I remember what it took to get it off and I'm not sure how to tighten it back.

Finally how big a PITA is the power steering system? My pump and hoses are a mess and I'm kind of dreading adding them back to the (now) clean block. Cost is also an issue.
Here is output shaft removed from power steer pump with some pics attached showing the SKF 6302 RS bearing. There are several different suppliers of the reseal kit selling on EBay; the gaskets & seals look slightly diff't b/w some of the suppliers; 1 of them could possibly be superior to the other but there aren't a dozen posts or write-ups of the pump rebuild so I'm going to take my time & do my own leg work on this. Do you feel like you could get away with using your orig' equip or does it show signs of serious leakage & wear/tear? If you do some research you will find that people aren't usually happy with the cheaper, a/m parts; some people aren't impressed with the reseal kit either but I think that is mostly user error & overlooking details. I would feel more comfortable rebuilding my orig' OEM part & knowing what I have inside & out after I'm finished.
 
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Last edited by chubbs878; Feb 23, 2017 at 09:05 PM.
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Old Feb 25, 2017 | 05:23 PM
  #45  
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I would just get a new PS pump or a rebuilt one.

2001 LAND ROVER DISCOVERY 4.0L V8 Power Steering Pump | RockAuto
 
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Old Feb 25, 2017 | 05:26 PM
  #46  
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Your head gasket replacement looks great.

Yes you can put the hood on. I never took off the hood.
I did my headgaskets in a parking lot in Boulder CO many years ago now.

Took me two weeks.
I went slow and easy.
And in the dark with a power inverter and a CFL trouble light.
That worked very well in fact.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/76579732@N07/
 
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