Just came back from work noticed a small drip by radiator. started diging in and found this.. anyone seen this before? epoxy? or new rad?

 

New rad - as soon as you plastic weld it or melt a zip tie on it, it will start some where else. Probbaly sludged up inside from original Dexcool, and needs to be changed anyway.

 

any ideas on how much a rad goes for? should i go to a radiator repair shop? or look for a new one. rebuilding is ok?

 

I just went through this crap myself. Same leak same place. I decided on replacing it instead of trying to fix it. It just isn't worth running the risk of over heating the engine or being stranded in the middle of nowhere or when you least expect it. Besides my radiator was already 12 years old. I got my radiator from Justin at Lucky8, it cost me $208 with shipping included. FYI when replacing the coolant use Peak Global lifetime and replace it every two years.

 

The D1 radiators are worth rework by rad shop (copper and brass), the D2 not so much. At same time you get the rad, from Justin, order a soft spring lower temp thermostat, change both.

Alternative - salvage yard, but come early because this is one of the first things to be removed. Be very careful of small plastic hose barbs - they are easy to crack.

 

You can buy a decent aftermarket radiator for $250 to $300 and if you are close to 100,000 miles, replace the t/stat, coolant pressure cap and flush out all the dexcool and switch to one of the better green coolants like Peak Global.

 

This is my trail of tears.
https://picasaweb.google.com/1135292...24419249738626

Notice the green trail from the top of the pic down. I can't figure out where it might be coming from. I was thinking maybe the manifold outlet pipe?

 

I'd say if you haven't replaced your hoses at all just replace them with the Rad, you have to drain the system anyway might was well save the time.

 

I just took another look at it, might be the water pump gasket. Doesn't seem that hard to replace, just need to find those fan wrenches.

Next stop, oil leak

 

The wrenches from LR work well but there is another option. If you put a long combination wrench (the kind with the 15degree offset open end) on the fan nut with the offset pointing in the direction of loosening then hit the box end of the wrench with a hammer, it will impact the nut in the loosening direction. I think the nut is 36mm. (I don't use this method, I've just seen it done, I bought the LR wrenches when I worked at the dealer because I got tired of always looking for the dealers set that the other techs never put away)