"Also do NOT use DexCool, use any other aluminum safe coolant, I use Peak Global 50/50.
http://sancarlosradiator.com/dex-cool.htm"

I agree with Mike - use what the vehicle was designed for, which is DexCool. If you follow the maintenance schedule and change the fluid at the recommended intervals you won't have any problems. If you wait 5 years or 100,000 miles between coolant changes, regardless of the formula, you are either a complete moron or have more money than you have sense. Also, why would you buy the 50/50 mix - you are paying for the convenience of not putting a hose in the radiator?

 

DII's came with DexCool NOT DI's, they came with standard green coolant.
You must use distilled water if you are mixing your own coolant.
Tap water has minerals in it and they will speed up the corrosion process.
Trust me, I used to sell bulk coolant and I had to spend 4 hours learning all about coolant.

 

Normal driving is back and to the right.

Lo range will give you more torque but limit road speed to 45mph and thats with the engine screaming at 5,000 rpm.

Lo is for pulling the boat out of the lake, off roading, deep snow, deep sand and pulling a house off of it foundation.
Locked is when you need maximum traction.
Steep wet boat ramp, deep mud, really deep snow, etc.
DO NOT drive in locked on dry roads, you will explode your transfer case.

 

hose water in the radiator??? i scream when i hear this. regular tap water has minerals and crap in it that will chew up aluminum. its bad bad bad!!!

if you buy a gallon of concentrated coolant at the store you buy a gallon of distilled water at the 7-11 or supermarket and add em.

tap water is a no no

 

"hose water in the radiator??? i scream when i hear this. regular tap water has minerals and crap in it that will chew up aluminum. its bad bad bad!!!"

You must scream a lot. For a lot of reasons. I suggest a mild anti-depressant. I take one and scream a lot less now. I also flush my radiator every 30k miles, so that "bad" tap water doesn't really have time to "chew" anything up..... I've had several vehicles with aluminum engines and most used DexCool. Never had a problem with the cooling system unless you count the deer and coyote that went through the radiator in my Volvo......

 

my dad is one of those path of least resistance guys,,,and likes to use ground water to fill his cooling systems.


also has replaced more radiators, heater cores and had more blown head gaskets then any single person i know. so when it came time for him to do a radiator flush on his jag i asked him what he was doing and he said "i bought a gallon of antifreeze and the water i will put in with a hose",,,

i went to the store and bought him a $.99 gallon of distilled water and watched him to make sure it was used.

maybe you have been lucky so far. maybe you have dodged a few bullets. maybe its just a matter of time. me, i will do it the way i know will not flub up my engine and cooling system.

 

i bought a new battery for the remote but it still wont do anything. i read the owners handbook in the rave manual completely through and it says they do come with one so i have no doubt its the one for the truck. im guessing its just messed up though.

anyone know if i can get a replacement from a dealer?

edit: ok, with the vehicle stationary appy both the foot brake and handbrake and then move the gear selection to nuetral before moving the transfer lever to the N position....

it wont move!

 

The lever wont move or the truck?
You do not want the parking brake set when using the transfer case shifter.
Setting the parking brake locks the out put shaft on the t-case.
If the gears cant align then the shifter wont move.

If the shifter has never been used it will seize, you will need to crawl under the truck and have your wife wiggle the shifter, take carb cleaner and spray every moving part that you can see, repeat for several days and then do it again with Liquid Wrench.
You will need to keep working the shifter to get it unseized.

 

the lever wont move. it feels like its completely solid. its to the point where i feel like im gonna bend or break something trying to get it to move.

 

Do a search on here, there are lots of threads on how to free it up.

On a DI you can program the remote yourself, it is in the RAVE manual.