Hey everyone, I’ve got a new timing chain and chain wheels on - had to tap the cam sprocket in with a rubber mallet lightly and figured the bolt will straighten it out when it’s torqued. It seems tough to get motor oil on it. Can anything else be used like petroleum jelly like I used on the oil pump gears? I’ve also got Sil Glyde. Or I could try to get some oil on it.

The gasket surface has some marks where the old gasket was fused on there and extremely difficult to remove. I was careful, but either some old coolant corroded it or I nicked it. I have black right stuff I was told to use on the surface, so I could apply it to the block, then put the gasket on, then cover the other side of the gasket, then put the timing cover on, if that’ll be alright - wondering if the damage will be alright in the end.

Ive got two timing cover gaskets. One from AB (Britpart) that has blue sealant on one side. And the other is from SKP that came with the budget front cover, which is just paper. Any preference? I’d just put a bit more black goop on top of the blue sealant?

Making some progress here. I’ll turn the crank by hand and check that everything is turning alright, then I’ll put blue loctite on the cam bolt.

I always appreciate input in case I’m on the wrong track, otherwise I’ll assume everything I’m doing is fine.

Thank you

 

That surface is completely a non-issue. It will seal without any issues at all and I have sealed surfaces FAR worse than that with no problems dozens of times in the past. I would use the blue one with RTV on both sides, you can just pour oil onto the chains btw. As far as timing it looks 1 tooth off in the picture but it is really hard to tell since it's not head on/it's a picture......

 

Thank you, I’m glad the surface will be alright. I cleaned it the best I could - it’s not perfect, but I spent enough time on it and it didn’t seem to be getting any cleaner. I blasted it with brakleen afterward.

I set TDC before removing the old chain and didn’t move the shafts since then, so I’m pretty sure it’s aligned properly still, but I think the angle of the picture makes it look like that - I’m adding a better picture as well, sorry the other one was crappy - the vehicle is lifted up high on stands and I have a leg injury I’m dealing with so it’s hard to do this. When I was installing the chain, it was very obvious to me when it was even just one tooth off, so I redid it until I had it right. I’ll be sure to pour a bit of oil onto the chain too.

The keys made it easy after all, although the cam sprocket was tough to remove and tough to get back on without the rubber mallet, which made it happen quickly - I think it got pressed into place more or less and figure the bolt will straighten it when it’s torqued. The manual says 37 lb-ft, but someone said to go to 55 - they might’ve meant Nm though.

Is it generally better to put the sealant on the surfaces or on the gasket itself?

 

Again, I don't use sealant, just to offer a counterpoint.

Also don't forget to put some motor oil on the chain and gears before buttoning everything back up.

 

Looks good/exactly right from that angle. Throw some oil on everything before you close it up.

Sealing is up to you but I always use RTV when paper or cork involved since I offer a long warranty and don't want comebacks at 11 months. For my own cars I also always back up the paper with RTV since I don't like ever touching something a 2nd time.