The Rave CD has enough sketches to get you through it, I did it and had never worked on an engine before but I do believe people here and at dweb have ssome photo walkthroughs. It takes some time though and I'm not sure many have the patience to document everything.

Put 5w40 in it either Rotella T6 or Mobil 1 TDT. If you want to go conventional go with 15w40 Rotella, Delvac, Delo etc.

 

k. Good advice so far.
One of my army buddies has volunteered to help, provided I keep the beer fridge stocked. He is fairly mechanical (so he claims) but admits to never working on a land rover before. So its gonna be a learning experience for both of us. Well actually for all 3 of us b/c nothing involving the rover can get started without my puppy, Tomah, attempting to help.

any body else got any info I will need before I start this project or suggestions to make it easier, cheaper, better or less painful to repair?

thanks
brian

 

It (retrospect) is honestly really easy with the rave CD it just takes a long time and you may run into some dead ends like when I rounded off the rear head bolt and had to go to harbor freight and get a damaged bolt extractor. I can laugh now but was quite panicked at the time.

 

Brian,

I wouldn't offer much in the experience or tools department, but I'd be more than happy to come down and pop my hood so you can compare while you're reassembling, let me know!

I've been running full synthetic 5W-30 all fall and winter and it's seemed to do the trick, Rotella, and now Valvoline, because it was on sale. I'll be switching over to 10W-30 next change since it is starting to warm up.

 

Pilsner, I am right in the middle of pulling my heads. Also, I have never worked on a Rover. I just bought this pig and am getting it squared away.

A rounded off head blot was mentioned - I used a 6-point impact socket with a breaker bar and cheater pipe. I think a 6-point socket (15mm) will prevent any rounding.

So far, the 14mm head exhaust manifold bolts have been the only PIA. They aren't bad once you get the safety tabs bent away.

My DI has 94k on and the push rods are coked up (black, burnt oil). But, unlike a Chevy V8 like I am used to, they do not have an oil passage in them so I just plan on measuring them and cleaning them up if the length is good.

As for the 36mm fan wrench, I used a stamped bicycle wrench for another vehicle and it worked fine. It is made for headset adjustments on bicycles and you should be able to find one cheap (Ebay?).

As for a torque wrench, I respectfully disagree with Nite Train - even a cheap torque wrench is fine. I recommend a "click type". You can check it against a beam type torque wrench that the motor pool likely has. If it checks as being calibrated against the beam type. Besides, the final torque on the head bolts is done by rotation I think. Having said all that, I trolled Ebay for about a month and found a recently calibrated Mac brand, all metal construction torque wrench for ~$60.

For cleaning the parts, I used a parts cleaner to get most of the stuff off then used Purple Power to get them really clean. Use the PP full strength and a cut-off paint brush - got the inside of the valve covers like new.

After seeing all the cooked oil in the engine, I will be running Mobil 1 in mine.

BTW, I think my whole problem was a blocked radiator. I am not even sure my head gaskets were blown but I overheated it getting it home. I figure I would get the engine squared away before I drive her full time.

Best of Luck. I also express sincere thanks for serving during this time of turmoil.