No crank, no start
#1
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Hi All,
Wading through days of forums on this topic so will give as much info as I can in the hope some superstar can help!
I have a 2003 Disco 2 manual that out of the blue will not crank and therefor will not start.
Initially I thought it must be the battery because we nearly took the existing one to the brink recently due to a fuel pump issue. I replaced the battery and no crank.
The immobiliser is deactivated in this vehicle.
I can bump/hill start it no problem.
There is no click when I turn the key to crank.
FYI I have another identical disco 2 on hand that I could use to transfer any fuses etc to rule anything out.
Thanks in advance.
M
Wading through days of forums on this topic so will give as much info as I can in the hope some superstar can help!
I have a 2003 Disco 2 manual that out of the blue will not crank and therefor will not start.
Initially I thought it must be the battery because we nearly took the existing one to the brink recently due to a fuel pump issue. I replaced the battery and no crank.
The immobiliser is deactivated in this vehicle.
I can bump/hill start it no problem.
There is no click when I turn the key to crank.
FYI I have another identical disco 2 on hand that I could use to transfer any fuses etc to rule anything out.
Thanks in advance.
M
#3
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Martin Shields (01-27-2020)
#5
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If it will run after dropping the clutch, it must be an issue with the starting circuit. A few things to check...
- Trace the heavy cable connections at the battery and the starter to confirm that they are clean and tight.
- Check the fusible link F13 under the hood.
- Swap the starter relay R2 fuel pump relay R1 and try the key again.
- Down on the starter solenoid, confirm that you have good voltage at the post for the heavy gauge wire running from the battery. Then run a jumper from the smaller blade connection on the solenoid and briefly touch it to the + bat terminal. If the starter doesn't move, you need a new starter. If it does, the trouble is somewhere further up the line. Fuse, relay, ignition switch, etc.
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Martin Shields (01-27-2020)
#7
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So curiosity got the better of me. Short story: I grabbed my coat, torch and laptop with your post and the fuse diagram outside and tried taking F12 and F13 from my working disco and it started first time.
Long story and perhaps a head scratcher, the one I'm having issues with has been missing f12 for a while.I just thought it was the headlamp switch but turns out it was the starter motor switch as well. Strangely it's been starting for quite a while without that fuse?
Anyway, thanks a million for the tips chaps.
M
Long story and perhaps a head scratcher, the one I'm having issues with has been missing f12 for a while.I just thought it was the headlamp switch but turns out it was the starter motor switch as well. Strangely it's been starting for quite a while without that fuse?
Anyway, thanks a million for the tips chaps.
M
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cvhyatt (01-28-2020)
#8
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If it will run after dropping the clutch, it must be an issue with the starting circuit. A few things to check...
- Trace the heavy cable connections at the battery and the starter to confirm that they are clean and tight.
- Check the fusible link F13 under the hood.
- Swap the starter relay R2 fuel pump relay R1 and try the key again.
- Down on the starter solenoid, confirm that you have good voltage at the post for the heavy gauge wire running from the battery. Then run a jumper from the smaller blade connection on the solenoid and briefly touch it to the + bat terminal. If the starter doesn't move, you need a new starter. If it does, the trouble is somewhere further up the line. Fuse, relay, ignition switch, etc.
#9
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Could also be the neutral safety switch. Is it still called that in a manual? Clutch switch? The switch that activates when the clutch is depressed so it knows it can crank, that way it won't crank if the clutch is engaged. I always bypass them so I can crank with the clutch engaged. Comes in handy sometimes.
If it is starting without a required fuse in place then someone has had this issue before and bypassed the fuse somewhere. If the electrical has been messed with you'll have to trace it back and find out where which will be fun. Personally I'd probably just run a new wire from the ignition switch to the starter solenoid and call it a day. I'd be sure to solder/heat shrink the wire to the ring terminal on the solenoid end at the very least to keep the weather out and prevent corrosion. The ignition switch probably could be crimped, but solder and heat shrink there is never a bad idea either.
If it is starting without a required fuse in place then someone has had this issue before and bypassed the fuse somewhere. If the electrical has been messed with you'll have to trace it back and find out where which will be fun. Personally I'd probably just run a new wire from the ignition switch to the starter solenoid and call it a day. I'd be sure to solder/heat shrink the wire to the ring terminal on the solenoid end at the very least to keep the weather out and prevent corrosion. The ignition switch probably could be crimped, but solder and heat shrink there is never a bad idea either.
Last edited by Alex_M; 02-01-2020 at 07:33 AM.
#10
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Could also be the neutral safety switch. Is it still called that in a manual? Clutch switch? The switch that activates when the clutch is depressed so it knows it can crank, that way it won't crank if the clutch is engaged. I always bypass them so I can crank with the clutch engaged. Comes in handy sometimes.
If it is starting without a required fuse in place then someone has had this issue before and bypassed the fuse somewhere. If the electrical has been messed with you'll have to trace it back and find out where which will be fun. Personally I'd probably just run a new wire from the ignition switch to the starter solenoid and call it a day. I'd be sure to solder/heat shrink the wire to the ring terminal on the solenoid end at the very least to keep the weather out and prevent corrosion. The ignition switch probably could be crimped, but solder and heat shrink there is never a bad idea either.
If it is starting without a required fuse in place then someone has had this issue before and bypassed the fuse somewhere. If the electrical has been messed with you'll have to trace it back and find out where which will be fun. Personally I'd probably just run a new wire from the ignition switch to the starter solenoid and call it a day. I'd be sure to solder/heat shrink the wire to the ring terminal on the solenoid end at the very least to keep the weather out and prevent corrosion. The ignition switch probably could be crimped, but solder and heat shrink there is never a bad idea either.
For info, it doesn't start without a fuse but it did do for a while which was baffling. Just realised the link fuses I ordered were labelled air suspension but given they are both 30amp I assume they can be used elsewhere that requires 30amp.
Going to order a few more and see if anyone has any thoughts on why its blowing when cranking.
M
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