‘03 D2 has never had any starting issues since I purchased it a few months ago. Previous owner (LR tech), installed new starter right before I bought it. The temperature dropped from the 40s yesterday and it was running fine (aside from a new ticking noise ), but it got down to single digits over night. No crank, no start, no codes on Nanocom this morning. Battery was 12.1v. Put on a trickle charger til full. Still nothing, & getting 11.9v to starter w/ key in run 2 position. Any ideas?

edit: also cleaned battery terminals, swapped around relays/fuses w/ non essential relays/fuses.

 

Did you try jumping from another vehicle?
It could also be something dumb like transmission not selected to P or N. (Don’t ask me why I suggest this).

 

Unfortunately, I’m parked in a stand alone 1 car garage which is forked off our sloped driveway, so I can’t back it out for a jump. I did try a jump box though, and moved my shifter through all the gears, as I saw that in another thread. I may try to pull a battery out of my diesel truck and hook it up for a little extra juice.

 

Had the same issue good battery voltage and car wouldn't start a few days ago figured it out to be this battery ground. Connection passed the wiggle test but a little tightening and she started right up probably should take it off and clean it but I'm lazy.
Thanks to whoevers image this is as I didn't have one on hand

 

You may want to remove, clean and reinstall the connections on the starter itself. Even if the starter is new, there still could be a problem with the connections. That was the cause of a no start with my first car, a '65 Mustang, 45 or so years ago.

Be sure to disconnect the battery before playing around with the connections on the starter.

 

Make sure it says you’re in park on the dash. Clean battery terminals.

 

Park or Neutral

 

Checked the 2 grounds from battery, and all starter connections. Upon further inspection, the starter looks new from the top, but when I got under the truck, it definitely isn’t a new starter. Maybe a junkyard swap out, but it looks like it’s been rapped on with a tool, so I’m guessing that’s the likely culprit. Also, I found a sticker on the side of my Duralast battery that says it’s from 4/17, & I remembered that I accidentally drained it when I first got it by leaving Nanocom connected overnight, so it’s probably shot, even though my tester says it’s a good battery. I have a $30 used Bosch starter on order from an eBay LR parts guy I’ve bought from before, and am going to get a blue top Optima on order. I am eventually going to install a second once I add roof rack lights and winch. Will update once I get parts swapped out.

 

@OleMissRbl It is not about volts it is about cranking amps, at 12.2 your battery is likely shot. I have a high cranking amp battery my disco will crank and start at 10.6 volts,alternator died I could start get into drive and drive on to the flat deck to get driven home literally 16 minutes. The transmission computer was not happy though.

At 6F my disco cranks solid and starts in a couple of revolutions max. My wifes ford with a much smaller cranking amp battery struggled to turn a v6 at the same temps. Both after 3 days of very cold temps.

 

OP, if your electrical system is in good order, you do not need two batteries....modern LED's draw few amps...and you won't be using your winch that often....

Duralast works fine for me.....and autozone has a great replacement policy...