No oil pressure after engine swap and what I have tried so far
#11
Need the history on the engine you bought, but I will say zero oil pressure is very rare and indicates a major problem. Front cover needs to come off. You could look at photos of front covers off online to understand the flow. The flow is basically pump - cooler - filter - engine. If you pull one of the plugs and pressure fill it you will prelube the engine. Go the other direction and you will prime the pump, you could actually gravity fill it. Look online there is a lot of information on air over oil priming systems used on LS series GM engines. If you do that you can actually determine likely oil pressure when running or conversely if you have a major issue ie walked cam bearing or other issue.
Agree with others, once the pan is off, check the rod bearings just for good measure, will give you a good idea how much wear on the engine.
Agree with others, once the pan is off, check the rod bearings just for good measure, will give you a good idea how much wear on the engine.
#13
#14
Despite finding a mysterious piece of rubber stuck in the oil pick up.....
- I got everything bolted back together filled with oil
- filled new Mobil 1 oil filter with oil
- pumped oil into oil cooler
- pulled coil fuse turned it over for a few seconds
- then fired it up and the d@mn oil light was still there so I shut it down
When I found the rubber piece I thought sure it was the cause.
While I had the pan off I poured oil into the oil cooler lines and got oil to come out the bottom (pretty sure I did both sides) for sure I did the the passenger side. These nights are running together.
Acording to where I got the engine it ran fine they brought it up to temp with no overheating before pulling it.
I guess I am going to pull the front cover and buy some more Rotella ... might need to buy some Shell stock.
Any other ideas? I am open to suggestions.
While I had the pan off I poured oil into the oil cooler lines and got oil to come out the bottom (pretty sure I did both sides) for sure I did the the passenger side. These nights are running together.
Acording to where I got the engine it ran fine they brought it up to temp with no overheating before pulling it.
I guess I am going to pull the front cover and buy some more Rotella ... might need to buy some Shell stock.
Any other ideas? I am open to suggestions.
Last edited by MtnCrk; 10-12-2018 at 07:20 AM.
#15
#18
I keep telling myself that because the engine probably set out for a while oil cooler lines open that the engine just lost its prime and that is all, I am an optimist.
Friday night football this evening, so front cover will have to wait until morning to come off.
Thanks to everyone for their continued help regarding this.
#19
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Since you have to pull the oil pan again, to remove oil pump cover...as mentioned earlier...check the o-ring on the pick up tube. Also, as bad as that looks, rubber piece in pick up tube...there was still plenty of area surrounding rubber piece to draw oil up the tube...if o-ring was good and oil pump is functioning. Yes, not perfect scenario...but it should have made oil pressure.
If o-ring is good...then front cover must be removed.
Brian.
If o-ring is good...then front cover must be removed.
Brian.
#20
Progress. Because you've proven fouling, you will want to remove each piece and verify that you can physically pour oil through all passages, oil pickup tube, oil passages in front cover, etc.
With the oil pan off, you will want to unbolt the lower halves of all 8 pushrods such that you can remove all 16 rod bearing halves with your fingers (easy). You can inspect them for bronzing to give yourself a ballpark idea about the wear of the motor, but never reinstall them. Always reinstall fresh rod bearings.
New rod bearings will always improve any oil flow. Same for new main bearings if you are feeling spunky. I mean, the oil pan is off and they are just sitting there waiting to be replaced...
Anyway, next you'll want to shine a bright light UP such that you can see if any cam bearings have walked. Walked cam bearings crush oil pressure and are best changed with the motor out, though there is some wiggle room here.
If the cam bearings haven't walked then you will want to remove the front cover. Pour oil through the oil passages to verify no hidden clogs. You also want to note if the front cover has any gashes from extreme wear (also bad for oil pressure).
At this point you will be looking at your oil pump gears which are most likely broken/cracked but still inside their races/cage area. Cheap and necessary to replace (lightly, never fully, packed with vaseline). Peace of mind if you replace the oil pump / cam timing chain with new, as well, though it is typically a trivial player in oil pressure.
THEN...you can button her all back up, refill with oil, and retry.
With the oil pan off, you will want to unbolt the lower halves of all 8 pushrods such that you can remove all 16 rod bearing halves with your fingers (easy). You can inspect them for bronzing to give yourself a ballpark idea about the wear of the motor, but never reinstall them. Always reinstall fresh rod bearings.
New rod bearings will always improve any oil flow. Same for new main bearings if you are feeling spunky. I mean, the oil pan is off and they are just sitting there waiting to be replaced...
Anyway, next you'll want to shine a bright light UP such that you can see if any cam bearings have walked. Walked cam bearings crush oil pressure and are best changed with the motor out, though there is some wiggle room here.
If the cam bearings haven't walked then you will want to remove the front cover. Pour oil through the oil passages to verify no hidden clogs. You also want to note if the front cover has any gashes from extreme wear (also bad for oil pressure).
At this point you will be looking at your oil pump gears which are most likely broken/cracked but still inside their races/cage area. Cheap and necessary to replace (lightly, never fully, packed with vaseline). Peace of mind if you replace the oil pump / cam timing chain with new, as well, though it is typically a trivial player in oil pressure.
THEN...you can button her all back up, refill with oil, and retry.