Hey all, Disco II newbie here. Just registered for the forum. Love the site!

Anyway, I just purchased my first Land Rover, a 2001 Disco II with a little over 89k miles on the odo. Drove the truck home fine. I did get the "M" and "S" lights, as well as the 3 Amigos, but both those issues are intermittent, as they only appeared once and didn't come back with subsequent drives. I did temporarily get stranded the day after purchasing it, my guess being due to a immobilizer issue as the vehicle wouldn't crank. Getting out and locking/unlocking the door with the key itself got her started up again.

Those were the previous issues I had, but now I can't get the engine to start. Thought it might be the battery, so I gave it a good charge but still nada. I used my diagnostic tool to try and pull any codes but there were none. Some digging around led me to believe it was the Crank Position Sensor, so I picked one up at Advance Auto, swapped out the old one, but still won't start. I'm about to check for spark in the morning, since I am too frustrated at the moment to be of much use lol.

Any input on the no-start issue? If I'm not getting spark, what could that mean? If I am getting spark, could it be a fuel issue?

Thanks I'd appreciate any input.

 

Welcome.

If you can't start, check for spark with a spare plug on manifold, etc. If no spark, consider that the CKP sensor may have been mounted incorrectly. Spacing, nuts, etc. are all very critical. Sensor, spacers, nuts.

If have spark, then fuel could be an issue. You should hear the pump run for like 2 seconds when you turn the key. It won't keep running unless the CKP tells the ECU that the engine is making 80 rpm or better. There is a fuel pressure test point under the driver rear corner of the top intake, hard to get at. Fuel filter and pump and fuel pressure regulator are one unit inside the fuel tank. There is an inertia switch on the fire wall that you push the top of to reset, it turns stuff off in a crash.

 

I had the exact same problem and it was the fuel pump relay. It's in the fuseblock under the hood. I swapped it with the windshield wiper relay next to it, and 6 months later both work fine.

But incorrectly installing the cps is very common.

 

Thanks for the input. I made sure to install the CPS correctly, so that wasn't the issue. Anywho, I went out this morning to check for spark and thought what the hell, I'll try and start it again. The engine turned over and started right away...

One thing though, the SRS warning light is illuminated, so I may need to have my charging system tested.

 

You better go have your charging system tested at a local parts store, make sure it is between 13.6 and 14.4, sounds like you have a low voltage issue.

 

I just took a multimeter and checked the static charge of the battery. It was around 12.2V so it's a little low.

When I started up the truck and checked it, the voltage hovered around 14.05 and never dipped below 13.7

I checked the dash and sure enough the SRS light wasn't illuminated I didn't load test the system, as I don't have a load tester, but the voltage is fine...

At any rate, I'll just continue on with doing a full service to the truck and come back with any issues that might pop up during that time haha.

Thanks for the input.

 

You do have a load to test with Head lights, wipers, heater fan, etc. Turn 'em all on, and volts should stay above 13.2 at idle. You can also check for a dead cell in the battery, measure volts with truck off. Turn on head lights. Measure again. If the volts drop below 11 volts like a stone then battery is pooped.

 

Always replace the battery when you get s "atrange" new to you vehicle.
Walmart - about $110.

You can get a brand new DENSO alternator for about $250.
The transmission needs voltage stability and for the voltage to be 13.8 or so
when running.
Voltage too low and solenoids will not pull in.

 

I seriously doubt the charging issue is related to the 'not starting' problem.

 

Thanks all. I turned everything on I could think of and tested the battery at idle. The voltage was right below 13 and dropping. The M and S lights came on when I did this as well. I'm also fairly certain the relay for the front safari lights is bad and draining the battery when the truck is off.

I'm just going to replace the battery anyway, as the positive post is messed up from the previous owner jamming a nail into the terminal after it got so worn it no longer tightens around the post. So, add a negative battery cable and a new positive battery terminal to the list of items to get...