Engine began suddenly stalling while driving around town. After letting it sit it would work again for ~15 minutes. Classic signs of the crank sensor going bad. So I replaced it today. It started up real rough, then settled down after 20 seconds or so. Idled for about 5 minutes then started sounding like a carbureted big block trying to idle in the winter. Now it will actually start, but only fire once or twice, then just shut right back off. If I slam the gas when starting I can usually get it to stay on for a few seconds. No check engine light and no codes.

EDIT: Can't figure out if this is still a CKPS problem or I've got something else now. Before, it wouldn't even fire at all once it died. But it will always start up now, just die immediately after.

Here's a quick video I took:

 

Okay are your sure that you have the spacers installed properly around the crank shaft position sensor? Get the "rave" out and double/triple check to confirm and then get back to us with a update!


Stalling

If the crank position sensor is going bad but still functional at times, the vehicle may start normally but then fail to start on a different occasion. In some cases, the vehicle may start and run fine, but then shut down without warning while driving.

 

Fuel pump? I'd check fuel pressure. It uses the little ford style pressure fitting, same size as a tire valve stem, under the upper intake near the firewall. It's kind of a pain to get to, but recently I discovered it's not exactly impossible.

 

I'm fairly certain the sensor was installed correctly. I stuck the sensor in, wire facing up and to the rear. Then put each spacer on, then a nut. It was very greasy/gunky from a leaky power steering. I'll try to get that cleaned up, maybe it interfered somehow.

I went back out between my original post and now and it ran fine again for 5-10 minutes, getting my hopes up, then died and is now acting weird again.

I did manage to pull a code now, P1884. Looking online though it doesn't really seem to mean anything. Likely just got thrown with all the stalling and restarting.

 

Thats a CAN buss message from the ecu. Can mean many things, will have to read at dealer or advanced scanner to see the underlying problem and clear it. Here are some of them:

P1884 (11) * CAN message: Engine friction invalid No apparent effect. On Off

P1884 (18) * CAN message: Throttle position invalid Substitute throttle angle of 50% adopted. No kickdown. Operates in economy modes only. On On

P1884 (19) CAN message: Engine temperature invalid Substitute engine temperature derived from other inputs. No apparent effect. On Off

P1884 (20) CAN message: Road speed invalid No apparent effect On Off P1884

(33, 34) * CAN message: Engine torque invalid Substitute engine torque of derived from other inputs. May affect shift quality. On Off

P1884 (35) * CAN message: Engine speed invalid Maintains current gear in low range, limp home mode in high range. Shift pressure to maximum, harsh gear shifts/engagement. On On

P1884 (37) CAN message: Engine air intake temperature invalid No apparent effect. On Off

P1844 (38) Altitude shift control invalid No reduced torque compensation, possible reduction in performance/ driveability at altitude or high ambient temperatures. On Off

 

So I just played around with it a bit more and may have found the problem. This all started after I went off-road recently and got some water in the intake. Car had been running rough for a week or so, then wouldn't start at all when the CKPS failed. I fixed the CKPS, so it will consistently start up, but still run rough.

So I figured it may be a MAF problem since I sucked air up. So I swapped my MAF out with a spare I knew was good about 10 minutes ago, and now my car seems to be working fine. Just to be sure I quickly put the old MAF back in, and of course it barely ran. Swapped the new one back, and good as new.

EDIT: Unfortunately I just bought that MAF a few weeks ago. The one I just now swapped in a few minutes ago was the old one that worked, but keeps throwing codes. Oh well...

 

Cold water not good for MAF. Or cold MAF cleaner on powered up or warm MAF sensor. Maybe warranty on newer MAF?