I am the second owner Savannah, I bought it with 152,change and before I bought it it was ALWAYS serviced at the dealer per Rovers recommendations, which is 7500 mile oil changes.
Everytime you change your oil you are doing a engine flush.
ATF is NOT a lubricating oil, why in the hell would a person fill their crankcase with a non lubricating oil and then run the engine?
If you really feel the need for a engine flush use a off the shelf product, they are going to warranty their product so if something goes wrong you will have some recourse of action.
If you just go at it ***** nilly you are 100% on your own.
If you use a diesel oil, which is highly detergent, it will slowly clean your engine as you drive.
I would do 2-3 1,000 mile oil changes with diesel oil and then go to a 5,000 mile oil change interval.
You cannot judge the condition of the motor oil by looking at it.
Again, you guys can do whatever you want, but I sure as hell would never nor will I ever fill my engine with a non lubricating oil and run it.

 

I'm not suggesting to run ATF in your engine, but it certainly has lubrication properties. It's what lubricates the gears on the auto transmission, and also in many a manual transmission and transfercase too.

 

WD-40 also lubricates, would you put that in your engine and run it?

And point taken about the ATF in manual transmissions and part time 4x4 transfer cases.

 

Back in the day, way back, mechanics used ATF to flush engines. They did not have the off the shelf products that we have now. for a 5 quart engine it was 1 quart ATF and 4 quarts oil. I would not do that today, but back then it was all they had. Also engines had cast iron blocks, for the most part, not aluminum.

 

Well, here is part of a post from Disco Mike about flushing, and perhaps ATF is still used once in awhile, if nothing else is at hand. But he also mentions a designed-to-flush product, and used at the dilution level still keeps mostly oil in the engine which is what Spike is correct to be concerned about. Certainly you would not want to drive the vehicle with just ATF in there.
previous post:

Either drain the oil, replace it with 6 quarts of ATF, using the old filter, and let it idle with the hood closed and the a/c off, for 30 minutes or quit having the dealer change your oil and start using 1 quart of of Gunk engine flush prior to your oil change and then do the change yourself using 6 quarts of Rotella 15W40 synthetic and a Mobil1-301 oil filter. You should be changing your oil every 3000 to 5000 when using a synthetic and stay away from the dealer.
__________________
Mike
Retired service manager. Member of the Solihull Society, NCLR club, SCLR and Santa Barbara 4 Wheelers

 

Coors-do you have SAI on your truck?

 

Yes, I do. But, it can't be the problem. I leaning towards a jacked up cam or lifter. I am running 15-40 w/ an M1-301 filter. My five or so past oil changes were Rotella 5-40. Im thinking about trying a 5-30 w/ an M1-301 and Marvel Mystery Oil. Thought process is thinner oil. Maybe the oil is too thick. Not sure at this point. This truck has had more oil changes in the past 7 months than jiffy lube does in a year. Its getting ridiculous.

Dude, sitting a red light with this ticking/tapping is down right embarrassing. To add insult to injury, every once in awhile I'll experience a sound similar to something rattling around.

 

see https://landroverforums.com/forum/ge...g-stops-43003/, just a thought.

MMO is certainly a step that is easy to take. I also used Auto-RX in both Disco 1 (general cleaning) and a Kia minivan (tick when warming up) - tick stopped, but took maybe 1000 miles. Auto-RX is a slow working formula.

 

Once the torrential downpour subsides I will pull the plug on the SAI solenoid and post my results.

 

yes, over at Boathouse Row on the Schuylkill they will be watching the water rise with delight.