Did my head gaskets, still overheating, so I replaced the radiator and t-Stat. Still overheating. Took to British 4x4 in Reno, NV. Says I have a slipped sleeve and need a new motor.

$5,600 for a used motor and $8,919 for a new reman motor from Atlantic British.

I'm done. I can't see dropping that kind of money on this...

Don't know what to do with it now...donate it? Try to sell it for a few bucks? Part it out?

 

You can try running a block sealer through it. For $40 plus some distilled water and antifreeze it might be worth a shot.

 

I feel for you. I'd get a second opinion.

I'd imagine you'd be able to sell it for $1k-$1.5k depending on condition and extras.

You could part it out for more, but that's a lot of work.

One idea - buy another d2, and now you have a parts truck.

 

I have a freshly sleeved flanged block up for sale then take your parts and rebuild and never have a sleeve issue ever again.

 

Brian over at British 4x4 is a stand up guy. I'm sure the above quoted prices include installation? Because you can buy a motor straight from AB for $5,000.

Also, have you thought of trying to pin the liners? You really have nothing to lose.

 

Block sealer.

If it doesn't work you have not diminished the part out value, and have not killed your options for a flanged block.

How quick is the overheat from a cold start? Overheat at idle or underway at 50 mph? What temps are seen on your OBDII connected scanner or Ultra Gauge? When you say overheating, do you mean the oem gauge moves way above 50% position and that annoying warning light comes on?

Did you do the chemical test to confirm that exhaust gas is present in the cooling system? If not, overheating can be caused by any of these and probably a few more:

Fan belt on wrong
Thermostat defective
Radiator blocked - check fin temp top and bottom, should be within 10F
Thermostat top fitting metering holes blocked
Defective coolant sensor and/or wire harness of same
Fan blades on wrong - air should pull thru grille and blow on engine. Ditto for electric fan.


Note - if new stat connected to wrong hoses at top things won't be right either.

 

Thats alot for a used motor!!! I got one at 86K miles for 1500 nearby. Im in TX and they found one for me. Ive even seen them on Ebay with mile descriptions at similar prices.

$5,600 for a used motor is just horrible unless it has like 10 miles on it.

 

Those prices include installation.

New radiator, new 180 tstat, I had a feeling it was the block before I took it in. I don't think I have the time to do a rebuild myself.

 

When it was overheating was it doing it at idle or under load, did your top rad hose become very pressurized?
I just finished putting in a used engine that we took out of a buddies truck which ran perfectly (100,000 miles on it), redid every gasket and timing chain and gears. I checked all the cylinders for any sleeve movement and all checked good and there was no noise coming from a sleeve sliding around but, now I have overheating issue.
I would look more closely at your issue because I believe there might be something else, imho. Maybe check the heads, or the head gasket job was botched by a bad headgasket some how.
I myself am going thru everything before I give up.
The problem with used engines in these trucks is that you could be buying someone else's lump of trouble and getting no where, I bought my used engine for $200 so I'm out little money if it failed.
Good luck

 

Get the heat down and see if the sleeve still rattles around.
180 degree thermostat from Rover. Not a Motorrad.

if the sleeve is still loose, you can pin it by drilling a small hole in the block -
putting in a screw into a threaded hole and into the sleeve. This stops it from clanging around.

There are excellent writeups on this board - if you can find them...
In your case, I would only drive with an ultra gauge to look at temp all the time.