I had my codes read and had the following...
P0150 - O2 Bank 2 Sensor 1
P0306 - Cylinder 6 Misfire
P0305 - Cylinder 5 Misfire (pending)
P0307 - Cylinder 7 Misfire (pending)

I cleared the codes and went for a 20-30 mile car ride and the light came back on. Had codes pulled again and had the following...
P0174 - Bank 2 Lean
P0150 - O2 Bank 2 Sensor 1
P0134 - Bank 1 Sensor 1 No Activity

The vehicle idles pretty rough when first started and warm. Once I drive its fine. When I do come to a stop it idles with a slight vibration to it and will get slightly worse if sitting for a while.

It'd be an easy troubleshoot, but getting codes for both O2 sensors makes me think the problem could be a common component like the MAF or fuel pump. Can one bad O2 sensor cause poor AFR's on the opposite bank? I'm thinking of swapping the O2s with the back ones to see if it follows or stays the same.

Suggestions? Common problem?

 

Good thing you asked first before throwing parts at it, you are looking in the total wrong direction.
The codes tell you what is wrong as well as the way the engine runs, multiple cylinder misfires, which will set off O2 codes.
Do a complete tune up, new plugs and wires, Kingsbourne or Magnecore plug wires are best, if you go cheap on wires you will be doing the job again sooner than later.
Go cheap on the plugs not the wires, I use NGK $1.50 spark plugs.

 

All that was done with the headgaskets a few weeks ago... I actually have the magnecor and ngk plugs.

 

Sorry, my mistake, I did not know you did all of that a few weeks ago.
O2's will not cause misfires, a bad MAF might.

 

You need to replace bank 1 sensor 1 right away.
No signal means you are running open loop.

When the sensor opens, the ECU will revert to the stored fuel map.

I had a sensor which had the same code.
I had NO misfires.

I replaced the O2 sensor - no codes since.

I would replace the bank 1 sensor 1 immediately.
Then deal with any remaining codes.

Replacing the sensor make also kill off a few codes.

If you can afford to replace bank 1 and bank 2 sensor 1 then do them both.

Of course others will say replace all the o2 sensors.
If you can afford it then do it.

 

When I borrowed Advance Autos scanner I checked the live data. At idle the MAF was .97-1.07 and there was one oxygen sensor that was at. 8xx and i this the others were. 34x. Just thought about that because I remember checking if they were cycling. Maybe I'll go borrow it again and change that one or at lest see what it looks like now.

I'm seriously starting to consider its my block, but i haven't driven enough to determine if I'm losing coolant or building coolant pressure.

I've only had this thing a month or so, seemed good when I bought it, but its sat in my garage more than anything waiting in parts/time/money.

 

Jfall might be onto something.
You could always swap the front O2's and see if the code follows.
You only need to replace the front O2's, the rears do nothing as far as fueling.

 

Look at the lean mixture code. Misfires on the bank. Look for a vacuum leak when the engine is cold. Smoke test or use propane, or carb spray. Bank 1 sensor one is most likely toast. But bank 2 sensor 1 is most likley flat lined because of a vacuum leak, and maybe b1 s1 also flat line. If fuel trim is so lean, lamda control will go off line, and not be in control. The crude way is to spray carb around bank two when the engine is cold and running rough. If it the idle smoothes out, you have a vacuum leak. Becareful with the carb spray and not start a fire.

 

Went and borrowed advance autos scanner again. I sure can't wait until I get paid, I'm going to just buy one of those elm327 scanners.

In any case I'm going to try the O2 sensor first. Here's what I'm looking at. Typing it out helps me think through it.

Codes:
1300 - Multiple/Random Misfires
0306 - Cyl 6 Misfire
0300 - Random/Multiple Misfires
0303 - Cyl 3 Misfire
0305 - Cyl 5 Misfire
0306 - Cyl 6 Misfire
0307 - Cyl 7 Misfire
0174 - Bank 2 System Too Lean (Pending)
0134 - Bank 1 Sensor 1 No Activity (Pending)
0303 - Cylinder 3 Misfire (Pending)

I also looked at the live data.

Long Term Fuel Trim 1 - 1.6
Long Term Fuel Trim 2 - 6.3

Fuel System 1 - Closed
Fuel System 2 - Open2

02 Sensor 1 Bank 1 - fluctuated .1xx to .7xx
02 Sensor 1 Bank 2 - fluctuated but stayed mostly around .6
02 Sensor 2 Bank 1 - stuck at .1xx the whole time
02 Sensor 2 Bank 2 - stuck at .8xx the whole time probably because of O2 S2B2

It seems odd to get misfires from an O2 sensor, but it almost seems like it's trying to run closed loop on startup and it's making it go rich, then the computer realizes the sensor is bad and going to open loop and that's when it's calming down.

Does this seem reasonable to ya'll?

 

Bank 1 sensor 1 no activity.
means Dead.

You gotta replace that one first.
Bank 1 Sensor 1.
Bank 1 is on the driver' side (USA).
Sensor 1 is the front sensor.

Then clear codes.
Then run it awhile.

Deal with the other codes as they come up from a cleared ECU state.

A dead sensor can be causing a few other codes I am guessing.
I am thinking that sensor is intermittent.
Like the sensor is getting plugged in - working, then unplugged many times a second or a minute.

My D2 did this.
I did not have misfire codes.

Check the bolts - 10mm on the intake - all on top. There are 6 of them.
Make sure they are not loose but don't tighten them too much from where they are - unless they are really loose.

Other things that use vacuum in quantity. Check those too.
Check the PVC hoses from the manifold to the valve cover for sealed and cracking.

Check the clamps on the MAF and the clamp to the manifold. Large hose clamps is all they are. Make sure all that rubber is all seated well.

You may want to take the MAF out - and put it back in - just to make sure it is all seated and sealed.

But for sure O2
sensor 1 bank 1. Must be replaced.