O2 sensor codes, which of the four?
#1
O2 sensor codes, which of the four?
I had these two codes show up today.
Which two of the four sensors are at fault here? Need to figure out which two are in those positions. I am assuming the front two, but want to be sure, thinking the rear ones would be Bank 1 and 2, Sensor 2.
thanks!
Which two of the four sensors are at fault here? Need to figure out which two are in those positions. I am assuming the front two, but want to be sure, thinking the rear ones would be Bank 1 and 2, Sensor 2.
thanks!
Last edited by chasen7; 07-05-2016 at 03:49 PM.
#4
Good to take a couple of minutes to search for the codes in Workshop Manual for a more specific Land Rover description. Helps with troubleshooting and can save cost of shotgunning parts.
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P0130 O2 sensor circuit malfunction (bank 1, sensor 1) Front sensor LH bank stoichiometric ratio outside
operating band
P0150 O2 sensor circuit malfunction (bank 2, sensor 1) Front sensor RH bank stoichiometric ratio outside
operating band
operating band
P0150 O2 sensor circuit malfunction (bank 2, sensor 1) Front sensor RH bank stoichiometric ratio outside
operating band
#5
#6
You are going to have to release them from the tabs that hold them near the engine. I never tried to unlock the tabs from the underside. When I did them I came at from the top with a long flat bladed screw driver and a boatload of patience. Once you clean them be sure make sure the connectors lock together. I also found that the PO had someone splice one wire back together ( almost behind the intake manifold). If you clean them and the codes still pop, you may have a wiring issue to contend with as well. Don't go pulling the wiring harness ( and your hair out) order new ones from amazon before you do that.
#7
Looks like both upstream o2's are malfunctioning. Check your fuses. Sometimes, because of their location near hot exhaust, one of the heater wires can short and blow a fuse. The actual signal reading is produced by the sensor itself, but the sensor has to be really hot to create the signal voltage.
If the fuses are good, I would check grounds. It seems unlikely they would both just go bad at once.
If the fuses are good, I would check grounds. It seems unlikely they would both just go bad at once.
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chasen7 (07-05-2016)
#9
Checked all fuses, only one found blown was the cooling fan. PO put a 30A in where a 40A is called for. Corrected that. All others good, so I moved on to unplugging and cleaning the O2 connectors. They were both oil fouled. Liberally sprayed connector cleaner and wiped them off. Added dielectric grease, plugged back in, and voila! No codes. For now. I have to drive an hour this afternoon, so we'll see what happens.
Little by little I am getting this truck back to good! The only light left on in the dash at this point is the oil cooler temperature sensor. Need to replace that (broken wire confirmed). And I do have intermittent three amigos, but plan to do Option B to the SVS soon to correct that.
Little by little I am getting this truck back to good! The only light left on in the dash at this point is the oil cooler temperature sensor. Need to replace that (broken wire confirmed). And I do have intermittent three amigos, but plan to do Option B to the SVS soon to correct that.