O2 sensor problem and fix - 2003 Disco 2
#1
01-13-2014, 06:48 PM
O2 sensor problem and fix - 2003 Disco 2
Hope this help someone. Many people post their problems but not the solution. Once the problem is fixed they disappear.
My truck: 2003 Disco SE 138,000miles
Here is another problem I encountered about 2 days after installing my CKP Crank sensor as described in another thread.
Now getting ready for State Inspection saw the SES lights. I had this before changing the CKP. I cleared after installing the CKP.
Before installing CKP I pulled codes and got . Using an Actron Pocket scanner. P1300 P0301 P0303 P0305 P0307 P1129
(about 2 days later-for Emission test) After new CKP I cleared codes, let idle for about 20min and went for a 10mile drive. Failed Emission inspection. Lights came back on. Got home and pulled codes
I/M 5ready. 3 inc Plus P0135, P0134(driver side O2)
Misfire Monitor - OK
Fuel System Mon - OK
Comp Component - OK
Catalyst Mon OK
Evap System Mon - inc
Secondary Air System Mon - inc
Oxygen Sens Mon - OK
Oxygen Sens Htr – inc
Reset one more time them went for a longer ride. About 50miles. No SES!!. Thought problem went away On my way back stopped at the Home Depot to pick up a few bags of wood pellets and started up and pulled off…then bam!! SES again..
Got home and pulled codes
I/M 7ready!! but Sec Air not ready. Plus P0135, P0134 again
Misfire Monitor - OK
Fuel System Mon - OK
Comp Component - OK
Catalyst Mon OK
Evap System Mon - OK
Secondary Air System Mon - inc
Oxygen Sens Mon - OK
Oxygen Sens Htr – OK
I am thinking O2 on driver side front is shot. Heater dead and no signal from O2. Bought an aftermarket cheapo sensor from ebay($22). 6mth warranty. Low on cash at the time.
Removing the O2 B1S1 was easier than I expected. The CKP was a nightmare because of space. O2 took about 15mins. Longest step was getting ready. Jacking up, spraying WD40 and getting right tools.
How I did it: Ran truck for about 3 min to heat exhaust pipe. Put on drive-up ramp. Chuck wheels, spray O2 sensor with WD40. Sit for about 10min. Got underneath truck… several times … trying to get right tools LOL!. Long arm reach from underneath got the “lower” clip, pressed it and pulled. Sensor connector end came off. The other half remained on the bracket attached to the wheel-well. I was surprised how easy it came apart. Inside the connection was clean but the outside was really messy. I then used that special 7/8 O2 wrench to break it. Used a wobble extension with breaker bar. Wobble is better because of the angle and space available. You don’t want to round or damage the sensor, just in case. Once broken you can use fingers to unscrew.
Installing was the reverse. More time spent putting tools away. Cleared codes, jumped in the truck and drove for about 10mile. Damn SES came back on. I thought I had it solved. I was now thinking the problem was due to the other sensor, passenger side front, not being changed with matching pair So guess what. I ordered the matching cheapo O2 sensor from ebay. Installing on the passenger side was much easier. Little more room to work with. After installing, and clearing codes, went for a test drive, truck ran worst than before, and SES came on. Got codes for both banks now(P0154 etc). Prior to that it was just for one side. Now passenger and driver side. Damn cheap sensors. BTW: The tip design was completely different connector was same as OEM but different color..
Anways so I bit the bullet and did 2 things. I purchased the fancy OBD11 Scanner with freeze frame and live data capabilities, and, ordered Bosch O2 sensors from Amazon. The Reader came in first, did a live scan and….0mV for BOTH O2 sensors with engine running. Incompatible or Dead O2!!!!! O2 heater circuit was fine. Couldn't believe BOTH Cheapo read 0mV!!! When the Bosch sensors came in I did things a little different. First I cleaned the area with CRC Electronic cleaner and second used di-electric grease on the connections although the inside was really clean. Replacement took about 45min total for both.
One important thing is, I installed the Bosch and with the car on the ramp I ran a live data read and I got ~0.5mV out of the box!!!!. That was great. Use Bosch!!! When I did the test drive the live data showed nice consistent ossicillation. Oh! and the Cheapo brand was filled with black carbon soot when I removed it.
Now unto my next project with this piece of junk. My Durango (>280 miles) never had this many issues. But the handling of the LR is much better. It was designed for off-roading.
Next project is the 1415 IAC codes which just popped up and the coolant leak which I am hoping is the Throttle Body Heater since coolant is sprayed on the outside and lower front of the engine. Engine Oil is clean, no white smoke and no significant pressure in the reservoir.
PS Also did a continuity check (heater) on the old 1st Bosch and bench top flame test. The heater was dead and O2 reading was weak, about 0.33mV max. The passenger side O2 was probably OK so I did not need to change it but since I was getting dirty I decided to change both, don't want get under there unless I have to..
My truck: 2003 Disco SE 138,000miles
Here is another problem I encountered about 2 days after installing my CKP Crank sensor as described in another thread.
Now getting ready for State Inspection saw the SES lights. I had this before changing the CKP. I cleared after installing the CKP.
Before installing CKP I pulled codes and got . Using an Actron Pocket scanner. P1300 P0301 P0303 P0305 P0307 P1129
(about 2 days later-for Emission test) After new CKP I cleared codes, let idle for about 20min and went for a 10mile drive. Failed Emission inspection. Lights came back on. Got home and pulled codes
I/M 5ready. 3 inc Plus P0135, P0134(driver side O2)
Misfire Monitor - OK
Fuel System Mon - OK
Comp Component - OK
Catalyst Mon OK
Evap System Mon - inc
Secondary Air System Mon - inc
Oxygen Sens Mon - OK
Oxygen Sens Htr – inc
Reset one more time them went for a longer ride. About 50miles. No SES!!. Thought problem went away On my way back stopped at the Home Depot to pick up a few bags of wood pellets and started up and pulled off…then bam!! SES again..
Got home and pulled codes
I/M 7ready!! but Sec Air not ready. Plus P0135, P0134 again
Misfire Monitor - OK
Fuel System Mon - OK
Comp Component - OK
Catalyst Mon OK
Evap System Mon - OK
Secondary Air System Mon - inc
Oxygen Sens Mon - OK
Oxygen Sens Htr – OK
I am thinking O2 on driver side front is shot. Heater dead and no signal from O2. Bought an aftermarket cheapo sensor from ebay($22). 6mth warranty. Low on cash at the time.
Removing the O2 B1S1 was easier than I expected. The CKP was a nightmare because of space. O2 took about 15mins. Longest step was getting ready. Jacking up, spraying WD40 and getting right tools.
How I did it: Ran truck for about 3 min to heat exhaust pipe. Put on drive-up ramp. Chuck wheels, spray O2 sensor with WD40. Sit for about 10min. Got underneath truck… several times … trying to get right tools LOL!. Long arm reach from underneath got the “lower” clip, pressed it and pulled. Sensor connector end came off. The other half remained on the bracket attached to the wheel-well. I was surprised how easy it came apart. Inside the connection was clean but the outside was really messy. I then used that special 7/8 O2 wrench to break it. Used a wobble extension with breaker bar. Wobble is better because of the angle and space available. You don’t want to round or damage the sensor, just in case. Once broken you can use fingers to unscrew.
Installing was the reverse. More time spent putting tools away. Cleared codes, jumped in the truck and drove for about 10mile. Damn SES came back on. I thought I had it solved. I was now thinking the problem was due to the other sensor, passenger side front, not being changed with matching pair So guess what. I ordered the matching cheapo O2 sensor from ebay. Installing on the passenger side was much easier. Little more room to work with. After installing, and clearing codes, went for a test drive, truck ran worst than before, and SES came on. Got codes for both banks now(P0154 etc). Prior to that it was just for one side. Now passenger and driver side. Damn cheap sensors. BTW: The tip design was completely different connector was same as OEM but different color..
Anways so I bit the bullet and did 2 things. I purchased the fancy OBD11 Scanner with freeze frame and live data capabilities, and, ordered Bosch O2 sensors from Amazon. The Reader came in first, did a live scan and….0mV for BOTH O2 sensors with engine running. Incompatible or Dead O2!!!!! O2 heater circuit was fine. Couldn't believe BOTH Cheapo read 0mV!!! When the Bosch sensors came in I did things a little different. First I cleaned the area with CRC Electronic cleaner and second used di-electric grease on the connections although the inside was really clean. Replacement took about 45min total for both.
One important thing is, I installed the Bosch and with the car on the ramp I ran a live data read and I got ~0.5mV out of the box!!!!. That was great. Use Bosch!!! When I did the test drive the live data showed nice consistent ossicillation. Oh! and the Cheapo brand was filled with black carbon soot when I removed it.
Now unto my next project with this piece of junk. My Durango (>280 miles) never had this many issues. But the handling of the LR is much better. It was designed for off-roading.
Next project is the 1415 IAC codes which just popped up and the coolant leak which I am hoping is the Throttle Body Heater since coolant is sprayed on the outside and lower front of the engine. Engine Oil is clean, no white smoke and no significant pressure in the reservoir.
PS Also did a continuity check (heater) on the old 1st Bosch and bench top flame test. The heater was dead and O2 reading was weak, about 0.33mV max. The passenger side O2 was probably OK so I did not need to change it but since I was getting dirty I decided to change both, don't want get under there unless I have to..
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