Used an App on the iPhone and grabbed some oxygen sensor numbers.
In reading rave, the front sensors should oscillate the mV's and they do, the rears hold more constant with slight fluctuations.
The Bank 2 downstream sensor seems to be jumping a bit much?
In a perfect system, should the values be moving equally as much, from Bank 1 to Bank 2? (IE should both the downstream sensors be producing about the same values?)
Took some video of the movement, here are some screen shots.
I might open a youtube account to get a video up.
As you look at photos
Red...Bank 1 Sensor 1
green... Bank 1 Sensor 2
Purple... Bank 2 Sensor 1
Yellow...Bank 2 Sensor 2
Thanks in advance...

 

Do you have any actual fault codes, if so tell us what they are cause that will make a difference if they need to be replaced.

 

Sensor 2's are the rear post cat sensors and are used to check if the cats are working properly... they aren't used in any other way (in most cars anyway) but to make sure the emissions equipment is up to spec. The fuel trim and timing use data from the front or precat sensors (sensor 1's) as that measures the exhuast quality comming right from the motor to make sure the correct ignition timing and fuel pulse are being used to prevent a rich or lean mixture. ignition quality ie. fuel injector function, compression, ignition/spark plug timing, coil/plug/wire problems, missfires, knockings etc can be found be bank 1 or bank 2, usually bank 1 being the drivers side exhuast, and bank 2 the passenger side (some vehicles are backwards, youd have to look for a diagram) so you can held narrow down slight changes or differces in each banks performance.

 

About a month ago the truck threw P0134 and P0135.
Swapped the 2 front sensors to see if the codes would switch side, as I assumed it would if the Bank 1 Sensor 1 was toast. I have not seen any O2 specific codes since.
Does that mean the front O2's are good?
The other night, I put the pedal to the metal... RPMS went to over 5000 for a couple seconds and Check Engine Light illuminated... P0306 [cylinder 6 misfire detected]. Checked the plugs and wires...all good. Reset and no codes are back yet.
After switching the O2's cylinder 6 is on the same side as the O2 sensor that threw the codes...if that means anything?

 

Yea those two codes suggest the front drivers side (pre-cat, b1s1) o2 has either wiring issues or is dead. If you didn't look when you swapped the sensors, check the condition of the connectors. Oil/road debris tends to wash down the wires and find themselves into the connectors. Pull them open, and see if they are clean. Look/feel for any residue buildup on the wires around the connectors and look at the contacts inside. You can clean them out carefully with a plastic pick or something similiar, and use electrical contact cleaner to help break up and oil/dirt and light rusting on the contacts if they are dirty. Check to see that they snap together cleanly and firmly too, they might be somewhat loose when connected causing intermitten signal lose. Follow the wires back up into the main harness to, make sure they arent being pinched or rubbed through at the t-connection. I'm only leaning towards this now because you mentioned that you havent had codes since, so it might have been a lose connection or wiring issue as the code should have followed the sensor to bank 2 sensor 1. a missfire will send a higher volume of unburnt fuel into the exhuast which the o2 will certainly pick up, but dont recall seeing a single cylinder missfire cause an o2 to completly fail or loose signal enough to throw those codes lol. usually in that cause youd get a code for o2 mixture too high i believe. but if for a month its been running code free, i dont think the sensors bad, just the connection somewhere that perhaps youve already resolved, at least temporarily.

Found this real quick... my phone isnt loading your attachment pics so i cant see your data but use this: "Most sensors output a voltage between 0 and 1.0 volts (usually .10 to .90), 0v - .45v for lean conditions, and .55v - 1.00v for rich conditions." You can see if either bank is running slightly richer or leaner then the other side. You can also look at your long term fuel trims and see if the computer has been adjusting one side or the other over its recent history.

if the plugs and wires are good, the missfire could be a less then well performing injector, or lower then normal compression... but at that high of an rpm, it could also just be the overall condition and combo of all of the above. the cam probably isnt doing its best at those speeds

you could also swap plugs and see if the code follows the cylinder. you could also run a can or so of injector cleaner through your next fill up in the gas... seafoam, stp, lucas... they are all pretty much the same.

those are all cheap or free things to do in the meantime before investing in o2s. id keep the revs low reguardless.

hope this helps... i'm not a mechanic so maybe someone with more info will chime in, these are just generic advice from my small amount of experience, but thats where id start.

ps. if you open and clean the connections, you could put a dap of dielectric gel in before closing which will help keep oil, water and other crap out of the sensor contacts.

 

Thanks guys...
Kodiak...
Connections were nice and clean when I swapped them. The only difference was the drivers side wire loom protecting the wires was gone. I did read somewhere in the RAVE that this could become an issue? maybe it was excessive heat on the actual wiring? (I think it was the RAVE I read this)
I did swap the 6 plug with the 4 to see if the code follows the 6... Nothing in the last day in the way of codes

 

I'm looking into replacing my o2 sensors soon I was surprised how cheap they are on amazon you can get a front and back sensor for 102 bucks or just the front for 40 each