Oil cooler kit?
#21
I spoke to Derale Tech Support and Cam, really helpful guy, pointed me towards the 15660 Kit.
Put it in last week. As I cannot track my oil temp I am not sure how much cooling of the oil is happening. The engine seemed to run 2-5 degrees cooler on the highway, but that is being judged by the Coolant temp which is not a perfect indicator by any means. We drove home to Chicago in 90 degree plus heat with tons of humidity. Engine temp stayed around 202 peaked at 207 up hill and into a wind. Was happy to have the oil cooler on there.
Cam wanted me to use snap on fittings, but that was adding cost. Also, having stainless steel lines made would be preferable, but again, you have to consider cost at some point.
Had to trim a bracket off the frame to get it to fit. Used aluminum stock to make the brackets. Sandwich adapter plate went on easy enough, didn't need to change filter. Used gaskacinch on the fittings for the lines at Cam's recommendation. Blue threadlocker on the thermostatic switch. Used a tap a fuse to wire the fan and that is on the horn fuse.
Install aside from fitment was a breeze.
Put it in last week. As I cannot track my oil temp I am not sure how much cooling of the oil is happening. The engine seemed to run 2-5 degrees cooler on the highway, but that is being judged by the Coolant temp which is not a perfect indicator by any means. We drove home to Chicago in 90 degree plus heat with tons of humidity. Engine temp stayed around 202 peaked at 207 up hill and into a wind. Was happy to have the oil cooler on there.
Cam wanted me to use snap on fittings, but that was adding cost. Also, having stainless steel lines made would be preferable, but again, you have to consider cost at some point.
Had to trim a bracket off the frame to get it to fit. Used aluminum stock to make the brackets. Sandwich adapter plate went on easy enough, didn't need to change filter. Used gaskacinch on the fittings for the lines at Cam's recommendation. Blue threadlocker on the thermostatic switch. Used a tap a fuse to wire the fan and that is on the horn fuse.
Install aside from fitment was a breeze.
Last edited by CollieRover; 06-18-2018 at 07:43 AM.
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Sixpack577 (06-18-2018)
#23
All said and done $400 for the project, because I had to buy some tools. A Milwaukee stepper bit kit was a huge help. The oil cooler kit is $255, and they do have cheaper remote oil coolers, but they talked me into as much cooler as you can fit. I did have to remove the bumper cover, and aside from rusted screws that was a breeze.
I did not want to remove the radiator, but you could definitely install a kit without a fan and save money, but it has to get air flow. That would force the heat through the radiator, which ideally I wanted to avoid, but that is definitely an option. I just got it in my head that getting the heat out of the engine compartment would be preferable. No scientific evidence to back that up.
I did not want to remove the radiator, but you could definitely install a kit without a fan and save money, but it has to get air flow. That would force the heat through the radiator, which ideally I wanted to avoid, but that is definitely an option. I just got it in my head that getting the heat out of the engine compartment would be preferable. No scientific evidence to back that up.
Last edited by CollieRover; 06-18-2018 at 09:00 AM.
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Sixpack577 (06-18-2018)
#24
All said and done $400 for the project, because I had to buy some tools. A Milwaukee stepper bit kit was a huge help. The oil cooler kit is $255, and they do have cheaper remote oil coolers, but they talked me into as much cooler as you can fit. I did have to remove the bumper cover, and aside from rusted screws that was a breeze.
I did not want to remove the radiator, but you could definitely install a kit without a fan and save money, but it has to get air flow. That would force the heat through the radiator, which ideally I wanted to avoid, but that is definitely an option. I just got it in my head that getting the heat out of the engine compartment would be preferable. No scientific evidence to back that up.
I did not want to remove the radiator, but you could definitely install a kit without a fan and save money, but it has to get air flow. That would force the heat through the radiator, which ideally I wanted to avoid, but that is definitely an option. I just got it in my head that getting the heat out of the engine compartment would be preferable. No scientific evidence to back that up.
Out of my budget right now, but on my "to-do" list.
Thanks
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CollieRover (06-18-2018)
#25
#26
If you have a stock bumper I believe you can fit one of their units with the two smaller fans below the radiator/a/c condenser to blow beneath the underbelly pan.
I decided to do this kit for ease of install after speaking to Derale and finding out mounting in front of the tire was OK. Not sure it was easier at all, and I think it ended up more difficult, but I got the largest fan/cooler so I am good with it.
#28
If you went to a cone filter, and modified the intake to relocate the MAF Sensor you could mount one where the stock air box is. Could relocate battery as well to make room for the cooler. Put it underneath the battery essentially.
I'm building an Overlanding rig for some light off roading, not for The Rubicon or serious obstacles. I'm more into fishing and biking than four wheeling. So I am fine with where I have it. I will probably trim up the plastic piece that was there to keep it a bit cleaner, but am really happy with how it turned out for my purposes. I'd also love to be able to tow a little camper.
I'm building an Overlanding rig for some light off roading, not for The Rubicon or serious obstacles. I'm more into fishing and biking than four wheeling. So I am fine with where I have it. I will probably trim up the plastic piece that was there to keep it a bit cleaner, but am really happy with how it turned out for my purposes. I'd also love to be able to tow a little camper.
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Sixpack577 (06-18-2018)
#29
If you went to a cone filter, and modified the intake to relocate the MAF Sensor you could mount one where the stock air box is. Could relocate battery as well to make room for the cooler. Put it underneath the battery essentially.
I'm building an Overlanding rig for some light off roading, not for The Rubicon or serious obstacles. I'm more into fishing and biking than four wheeling. So I am fine with where I have it. I will probably trim up the plastic piece that was there to keep it a bit cleaner, but am really happy with how it turned out for my purposes. I'd also love to be able to tow a little camper.
I'm building an Overlanding rig for some light off roading, not for The Rubicon or serious obstacles. I'm more into fishing and biking than four wheeling. So I am fine with where I have it. I will probably trim up the plastic piece that was there to keep it a bit cleaner, but am really happy with how it turned out for my purposes. I'd also love to be able to tow a little camper.
No cone filter/hot air intake for me.
I like it quiet. I'll find somewhere for it when the time comes.
Some vacuum actuated hood loovers would be nice too.
#30