DII's do not have a oil cooler, just trans cooler.
You can take the guts out of a Toyota Corolla aux fan (Denso motor) and replace yours, get one from a junk yard for $15.
The oil pressure switch is a common leak point.
A loose oil filter will leak too.
A cracked oil filter gasket will leak.
The front main seal is common to leak as well as the oil pan gasket.
You really need to get that inspection cover off the bottom of the truck, if you cut it off you can then repalce it this summer when it gets warm.
I had a 2001 Montero and it too had a inispection cover like that, I replaced the factory botls with stainless steel ones so they would not rust and sieze.
You might want to consider that too if you really want to keep it.

 

I searched a few threads a while back and ran into someone mentioning that the corolla part was an exact match - I don't have the first idea where to start looking for a junk yard around here though. Didn't that thread also mention that the NEW corolla fan was pretty cheap too?

This elusive press. sw. is bugging me! RAVE wasn't very helpful at all, I mean what is this a picture of, really?!


I'm going to order a PCV kit and oil pres. sw. tomorrow from atlantic british, since it seems destined to fail even if it hasn't yet (and there's a good chance it has) then again as soon as I buy it, I'm sealing my fate since it'll probably be in perfect shape.

Is there any other cheapo preventative parts I should grab while I'm making the order?

Might as well replace the oil filter/gasket and do an oil change while I'm down there I suppose. Dip stick looks clean, and prev. owner said he had just changed the oil - but they all say that. Even so, that was over 2k mi ago. I'll probably run something a little heavier for the summer months, and if it's a gasket issue it'll probably help that as well. Is 15-50 a bit much?

 

I have been using Mobil 1 15w-50 for the summer months for the last 3 years, 5w-30 for the winter.
As long as you are placing a order you might want to throw in a air filter, throttle body heater gasket and whatever catches your eye.
Read through there tech tips at the bottom of the page, it will help give you a idea of what you may need in the future.

Looking at that RAVE diagram that looks like the oil pressure sending unit.
It is right above the oil filter.
I had to replace mine, $12 at AutoZone.

 

Really? Mine has something above the trans oil cooler, ahead of the radiator and behind the air conditioner condenser.... the RAVE manual calls it an "engine oil cooler" What is it?

Atlantic British has a replacement for it also:

Oil Cooler - Engine

Our Price: $219.95
Item: ESR3592G Genuine Part
In Stock: Yes!

Fits:
Discovery Series II | '99 - '02 | Up To VIN 2A756820

 

I guess I need to be more clear, if for nothing more than to save my "good" name...LR did away with the oil cooler to NAS models once they figured out that no Americans actually took their trucks off road or towed anything.
I forget what year they did away with it though, and from your copy/paste it looks like sometime in '02 model year.

 

I ran that stuff in my M3 but beware, the new "extended performance" 15-50 SHEERS OUT LIKE WATER in high temps.

This was confirmed by numerous Lotus Elise auto-x members that were blowing engines on bobistheoilguy.com - tests confirmed that the new label 15-50 is drastically different and is a hydrocracked group III "mineral-based synthetic" with bad sheer properties.

Granted this probably isn't as much of an issue in the LR engines, but it's worth noting! After seeing my low oil pressure light flicker in the M3 and discovering the "oil-to-water" phenomenon, I was horrified and will never touch that stuff again. I'm running the new green label 0-30 Mobil 1 in the Mustang, so I'm not against them - but it's different for every car I guess. However under NO circumstances should a "heavy" oil like a 15-50 turn to water like that, especially a "synthetic" which should exhibit good sheer traits.

I switched to a German brand called Lubro-Moly with is a group IV full-synthetic 5-40 which, sure enough, ended up being thicker and exhibited AMAZING sheer resistance. It also quieted down the engine, eliminated the variable valve timing chain clatter, quieted down the lifters, etc. - she purrred like a new engine with 124k miles! It's expensive stuff since it's imported (~$8/qt I believe) but it was worth it in a semi-high compression 6 cyl. engine that revved to 7200rpm.

Then again, if you want the best - it doesn't matter if you NEED it or not, I'd use that stuff again in a heartbeat.



anyways back on topic - what's the deal with the heater plate gasket? That's an issue I haven't done too much reading into yet. As far as the filters go, I'm going to get that kit with everything - oh BTW why can't I find a fuel filter for the DII on there? Only the DI?

 

I am no longer using any Mobil 1 products.
I cant get the 15w-50 any more, and the TD5 in my Mercedes Sprinter blew up after only 167k using the factory fill Mobil 1 0w-40.
$6000 for a engine rebuild on a 3 year old $45,000 van.
Now lets add in the 4 turbos (~$2500 each) that were replaced in that time and thats alot of money.

I am switching to either Rotella T 15w-40 for the summer and 5w-40 for the winter or Castrol Tectra in the same weights.
In my opinion unless it is a true full synthetic like Amsoil, Royal Purple, etc. (and I will NOT pay that much for motor oil) I think a heavy duty oil is just as good.
And I am staying with the 5,000 mile oil changes too.

 

You know, it just lets us common folk realize that you are human after all!!!