I was looking in my Land Rover workshop manual for 99-02 Discovery 2, and on page 12-2-51 it describes using tool 12-183 when bolting the oil pan to the block. I didn't do this and mine leaks. I didn't read this before doing it. Any knowledge about this?

 

You don't need the tool.
You do need to put a good sealer on both sides of the gasket, and torque the bolts in the sequence in the manual.

 

I used that blue sealer, but I remember that pan weighed about 100 lbs and I struggled to get it up there. The gasket probably shifted, though the bolts went in the holes in the gasket.

 

Well, if it makes you feel any better...
I've been working on cars for a long time, proffesionally for a couple years. But, my 04 is my first Land Rover.
I replaced the oil pan gasket a couple months ago (with alot of other parts).
I used a black high temperature rtv sealant, and on both sides of the gasket. Pan and block were clean, and torqued in the proper order. The rtv also had plenty of time to cure, as it was a couple weeks before I finished the engine and cranked it.
Guess what I noticed 3 days ago? Yep, oil pan leak. Small drip, coming down from front passenger side.
RRRRR! I work on alot of sportbikes and atvs. The best stuff I have ever used is Yamabond and Hondabond, they are like rtv superglue, and what I will be using next time, whenever I get motivated.
It's also easier to put the sealant on the bottom of the block, and top of the pan, with the gasket on the pan.
I feel your pain, and wish you well if you try again.
I don't know about your LR, but I swear mine is possesed, lol.

 

Mine has been a cherry. It's only recently given me trouble, at 183k that is to be expected. Just cleaned my throttle body.

 

You're not supposed to use anything but the gasket on a D2 oil pan.
Just put the gasket on the pan, then torque to spec.
I last changed my oil pan gasket about 12k miles ago and it doesn't leak a drop.

 

Per the manual, no.
Count yourself fortunate.
And, the sealer isn't causing the leak.

 

If I remember correctly, the manual states to fit the gasket dry.
The sealant only goes on the block where it connects to the front cover and rear main, not on the gasket or oil pan.

 

Yes...but putting sealant on it won't cause it to leak.
Normlly gaskets leak without some sort of sealant.
There is nothing special or different about the aluminum on the LR block and oil pan than any other vehicle.

 

Yup. I went by the workshop manual for mine, which said to use RTV on only 2 small areas (I can't remember if it was front or rear side but I do remember that it wasn't left side or right side).

The first time that I bolted on the oil pan, I could just feel something, so I unbolted it and sure enough I had somehow twisted the dang oil pan gasket.

Grrr... So I got it back flat and back into its positioning holes and then the second try had the oil pan on correctly.

I torqued the bolts back per the order in the workshop manual.

2,000 miles later still no leaks from the oil pan (can't say the same for my power steering box!).




Now, what I wish that I had done was use my borescope while the oil pan was off to sneak behind the front cover to inspect the oil pump gear... but since I don't have a low oil pressure issue any longer I'm probably ok for the moment.