You would not be able to see the oil pump gears with a borescope.
There is a cover that holds the gears into the timing cover.
only way to see is to completely remove the timing cover, and unbolt the gear cover after timing cover is out.

 

100 lbs?! The pan is aluminum... weighs 15 pounds tops.
My block mating surface is scratched up pretty good, but I still fitted it dry w/ the gasket only, and no leaks.

 

https://www.permatex.com/products/ga...gasket-maker-2

Use this next time and you will have no issues...well, with oil leaking from pan anyway.

Tech's over at the Cummins dealership turned us onto this product for aluminum engine components on their 5.9 ISB engine. Lots of leaks with original factory sealant (brittle, hard crap) on front gearset cover and such, but this stuff stopped oil dead in its tracks and handles vibration/expansion/movement extremely well. Stays somewhat flexable throughout its life cycle.

Best stuff I've seen in forty years of wrenching. Used it on the assembly of my wife's 03 Discovery 4.6 engine...and it doesn't leak a drop. And yes...it has oil in it...lol.

Brian.

 

Also, just put on a light skim coat on pan, enough to help hold the gasket in place, let it setup some, then apply coat to upper portion of gasket and maybe a tad more in spots where other components (frt. cover, etc) meet surface...and install. Get someone to give you a hand if the pan is to heavy for you. Moving it around, once it has made contact with the block...only leads to problems.

If I've learned one thing after forty years of wrenching...never...ever...trust a aftermarket gasket. Always use a sealer. Most folks get into trouble when they use to much, and this cause the gasket to slip out of mating surfaces.

Brian.

 

Good to know, thanks.

 

A bag if ice is 10 lbs, so maybe it was 15 lbs. A lot to lift with your weak arm as you use your strong hand to align and thread a bolt. I may not have let the sealer dry as I supposed it should mate up when wet.