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Old Jan 26, 2012 | 12:35 AM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by 94svt50
did you use a new o ring on the oil pickup? did you put any lube on the new gears?
Yep new "O" ring and put it on the timing cover......
 
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Old Jan 26, 2012 | 12:42 AM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by 0304Disco
Here's what I've done and it worked great. Pull the threaded plug on the the front cover which is located just below the oil pressure sending unit. Take a small hand oil pump and insert the filler neck in the now open front cover hole and fill up the oil pump with oil until it over flows out the open hole. You must make sure your oil sump has oil in it prior to doing this so the oil your pumping in just doesn't backflow from the pump into the oil sump.

You also will not get oil pressure if you attempt verify pressure before start up by pulling your ignition fuse. The starter doesn't spin the engine fast enough to build any readable gauge pressure.
Ok so if I fill up the pump with oil it may rectify the problem. So the pump does need a adequate amount of oil to act as a primer. That has now become #1. Will a turkey baster work or should I use a thin hose and a small hand pump?? Thanks
 
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Old Jan 26, 2012 | 04:51 AM
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Baster will work. Oil light should go out when starts in less than 5 seconds. May want to squirt in oil until it leaks out, bump starter to move pump gears, then squirt in some more. The RAVE tells you to oil the pump on assembly, they just don't indicate how much to use:

1.
Lubricate rotors, oil pump drive gear, cover
plate and housing with engine oil.

2.
Assemble rotors and drive gear in housing
ensuring that reference marks are aligned.

3.
Position cover plate to housing.

4.
Apply sealant, Part number STC 50552 to
threads of cover plate screws and bolt.

5.
Fit cover plate screws and bolt and tighten to:-
Screws - 4 Nm (3 lbf.ft)
Bolt - 8 Nm (6 lbf.ft)

6. Fit timing cover
 
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Old Jan 27, 2012 | 02:08 PM
  #14  
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ok so here goes....I took the oil sending switch out and poured oil in BUT that didn't work. Removed the oil filter and it had maybe 4oz of oil in it, while filter was off I put a bucket under the area and started the motor w/o filetr on .....to my surprise the was NO oil coming out. Looks like I am going to have to tear into this once again and redo the front cover/pump and triple check the repairs when I put it back together. I didn't have oil pump problem before this. I just did the pump while apart on advice. Is there a foward and reverse on the oil pump gears and are they mated to go only one way?? Just ordered new gaskets from British Atlantic. pan/water pump and front cover. and oh ya seals for the tube and the pick up. These pumps seem to be very tempermental. Any advice before I start the tear down?? I've tried everything....just NO pressure in the oil lines. When I do the cover I am going to check the two pressure valves too. At least all the bolts are clean, and I've done the teardown once so it'll be easier this time. LOL
 
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Old Jan 27, 2012 | 03:32 PM
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WHOA - when I read his "prime from outside" suggestion, it says plug below the oil sender....

There's no oil coming out because the pump is dry.
 
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Old Jan 27, 2012 | 03:37 PM
  #16  
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did you put a new o ring back on the pickup tube where it attaches to the pump? If this is not right it will just suck air. If you got the gears from Atlantic British, the EAC brand then there is no top or bottom. I e-mailed the maker of the gears when I did mine and they said it does not matter in the orientation of the gears. If they are factory land rover brand gears then there is a slight chamfer on edge of one side of the gears. The chamfer edge goes face down into the pump housing.
 
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Old Jan 27, 2012 | 03:58 PM
  #17  
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I replaced the "O" ring on the Pick up. I'm going to take the water pump off tomorrow and see if there is a way to prime this pump. It's to bad Rover didn't put in a primer hole in the cover to use and then have a small fine threaded bolt to close the hole. Would have been a life saver.
 
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Old Jan 27, 2012 | 04:02 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by Savannah Buzz
WHOA - when I read his "prime from outside" suggestion, it says plug below the oil sender....

There's no oil coming out because the pump is dry.
your right Hole below the sender...............gotta take a better look.....didn't see a plug except where the cooler line goes..............hummmm think I just found the "plug" it's actually the cooler line to the cooler. Oh my I am really losing it. Well tomorrow is another day.
 

Last edited by MrFlea1; Jan 27, 2012 at 04:06 PM. Reason: wording
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Old Jan 27, 2012 | 08:18 PM
  #19  
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Keep in mind that not all D2's were fitted with an oil cooler, ones after a certain VIN did not get one. Some owners got it, some don't. Those that don't have only one middle radiator, those that do have a stack of two.

If this is a way to prime the pump, without opening the cover and doing an afternoon of wrenching, sounds good to me.
 

Last edited by Savannah Buzz; Jan 27, 2012 at 08:23 PM.
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Old Jan 27, 2012 | 09:10 PM
  #20  
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Go to the hardware store and buy a oil can.
I have the first one, bout it at Menards for $5, I have it full of gear lube to lube the CV joints.

https://www.google.com/search?q=oil+...w=1366&bih=667
 

Last edited by Spike555; Jan 28, 2012 at 05:10 PM.
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