I had the same problem. Did an oil change myself with good oil but I used a fram filter. Changed to a Mobil 1 filter and the light never came back.

 

Ok, the light came back.

I noticed it come back only after a longer drive. After pulling over I noticed a radiator leak. So now it's at shop because I don't have the means or time to replace a radiator at home.

A lot of people are saying that the temp gauge is very inaccurate, could I just be overheating?

 

The temp gauge hits the normal operating range at 150 degrees and doesn't move till around 230 degrees.

 

drewski,

The light comes on at engine start, because it is below 6-7 PSI. Goes out in a second or two. Dropping to that pressure later on, either at idle or during driving, is a bad sign. You can borrow/rent a pressure gauge from a parts store. Record readings at idle and 2500 rpm, both cold engine and warmed up; and post those numbers. You would want around 50 PSI when revved up hot. Don't be driving truck with low numbers revved up.

If you had a lot of engine wear already, it may only have 25 PSI of oil pressure. You can replace main bearings in the truck, and you can rebuild top end rocker arms.

Your idea on heat may also be a problem, when oil is heated way above normal it thins out and can show a pressure problem. The factory gauge will tell you almost nothing. A scanner or Ultra Gauge is money well spent. Notice in pix 2 trucks, 2 temps, same gauge reading. Of course, if truck is overheating you will have other problems.

Some trucks have a lot of sludge build up inside the motor. This keeps oil from draining back by gravity to the oil pan, and at speed this can make oil light come one while driving (very bad). Sludge can be somewhat removed by a number of ways.

 

I think you may have a bigger problem then the oil filter. Do you have an oil pressure gauge installed or do you just think everything is fine because your light went out? You still may have really low oil pressure but be just above the minimum PSI to trigger the light.
The reason I say this is because I've used a Fram high mileage oil filter for the past year and half now and I have great oil pressure (52psi at 2,200 rpm/60mph; and 22psi sitting in the drivethrough/idle). I've used the more expensive filters and I see no difference in oil pressure numbers.
What exactly about a Fram oil filter is bad and would make your oil light come on?

 

If you have the external oil cooler it could be sludged, line crimped flat, etc.

As for FRAM, see Tech Review: The Long Waited FRAM OIL FILTER REVIEW! - Automotive Social | DSLReports Forums

and many other such links on line.

 

If I remember correctly, filters have bypass valves that help regulate pressure. It's only supposed to affect things when the oil is cold and thick. But I can imagine that a faulty bypass could let too much oil pass and lower the oil pressure. And the main difference between fram and everybody else is crappier bypass valves.

Don't get me wrong - I ran frams for 20 years without an issue. I'd run one again if I couldn't get a M1 or Purolator. But they are cheap filters so it's easy to imagine quality control issues.

 

I had an OPL shortly after an oil change recently as well as a bad leak. I did the change myself so I knew It was done right. Ended up being the OPS failed and at the same time. Changed the OPS and no more OPL or leak. win win.

 

sometime it can be that simple, that's why checking the pressure with a 2nd gauge is so important.

 

I slept much better when I tested my tired old D1 and found 44 PSI hot at 2000 rpm. Rover used to have an oil PSI gauge available on old Series trucks, it was listed as about a $35 option back in the 50's/60's.

The warning light going out just tells you it got to 7 PSI. Don't want to sport about at 12 PSI.