did you "prime" or fill your pump with grease or petroleum jelly , I hear that's important upon first start up after disassembly ??

 

Bump.

How is this coming along?

 

How's goes the project? I just replaced my oil pump and it worked fine for about a week and now I'm getting the oil light again at idle and only reach about 25-31 PSI at speed. The outer ring on the original pump was cracked in two places and I'm assuming the same has happened again even though it's only been a week.

If you're still subscribed to this thread please let me know how it's going after pulling those studs!!

 

Do you think it's possible that you have bearing damage? With a new pump you should be getting normal pressure otherwise. It would seem odd that the pump would fail again so quickly.


Somewhat related- Turbodave, the guy on Discoweb that remachined his block also breifly mentioned that it might be possible to bore out the pump housing a bit where the gears fit. He thinks that a 010" overbore might be enough to relieve the tension placed on the gears caused by the misalignment. I don't know if any leakby would affect the oil pressure, though. Since the gears will have more room to "float" in the housing, it seems to me that some decrease could be expected.

 

Has anyone ever tried the offset dowel pins that racers use to bring bell housings and such into perfect alignment?

 

Yeah I replaced both the engine and crank bearings except for the rear engine bearing and the rear seal. I didn't want to risked screwing up the rear seal and then having to remove the engine to fix it.

Since replacing the front cover the problem has become progressively worse which makes me think it's the oil pump again. If it were a bearing issue like the cam bearings which i didn't replace it wouldn't get [rogressively worse it would just be a consistant set of numbers throughout the range of rpms.

Here are the numbers since replacing the oil pump
After installed:
Idle - 18-20 psi
2000 rpm - 28-31 psi
Max - 41 psi

3-4 days later:
Idle - 13-15 psi
2000 rpm - 23-26 psi
Max - 35 psi

Now:
Idle - <5-6 psi (oil light)
2000 rpm - 16-19 psi
Max - 31 psi

The (Now) numbers are exactly what they where before I replace the original pump that came with the truck when I bought it. Attached are picture of what the pump looked like when I got it removed.

So Monday I'm ordering up a new one and when I get it I'm gonna give removing the studs a shot and seeing what happens. I would really like to know what that has gone for anyone who has done the same!!!

 

on page 2 of this link there are detailed pictures of a possible
fix
https://landroverforums.com/forum/sh...ad.php?t=27428

 

No pics, only a link to d-web. I would strongly suggest not removing the dowel pins. The location is off by a few thousandths, do you think you can line it up that closely?

It is not contained to these years. My 97 had the same problem at 50K and they replaced the block under warranty.

 

The plan is to get the cover on, thumb-tighten the bolts and turn the engine over breifly (1/2 sec.). Tighten to 10 FtLbs and then turn over again and then tighten to spec 18 FtLbs . I would assume through that process the crank would have alighned it to where it needs to be.

 

before you do that, I would check end play on the crank just to make sure you don't have a bent crank. Give it a shot and let us know how it holds up. If it doesn't work, you nac get any 4.0 (non distributor) block and replace with your crank and pistons. You will get a 4.6 then. It is just a stroked 4.0.