OK to bend track rod?
#1
OK to bend track rod?
Well it happened. Hit a huge rock and bent the track rod. Have to drive on a 400+ mile road trip tomorrow. Would it be okay to try and bend it back while I am waiting for a replacement HD rod? Don't want to screw anything up worse.
Since it is a track rod/drag link setup, aren't the wheels straight even if the steering wheel itself is a little off center?
Thanks.
Since it is a track rod/drag link setup, aren't the wheels straight even if the steering wheel itself is a little off center?
Thanks.
Last edited by willrok13; 08-09-2013 at 11:11 PM.
#3
I wouldn't try to bend it back, but you can adjust it out some to compensate for the bend, and keep it driveable, it doesn't look like it's bent in a way that will cause interference.
Adjust at least 4 or 5 turns past where straight would be, and then go back, just to make sure you're not approaching the end of engagement.
Adjust at least 4 or 5 turns past where straight would be, and then go back, just to make sure you're not approaching the end of engagement.
#4
Thanks for the help. Any idea how many turns are in the adjuster before it loses engagement? The last thing I want to do is have that thing pop out lol
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The track rod alone should not effect tire wear, as all it really does is set steering wheel angle to wheel angle. It being out of adjustment is not the best thing for the steering box, as it's center position will no longer be the tire's straight ahead position, and if it is bad enough it can change right to left steering lock ratio, but driving on it should cause much of an issue.
I don't know how many threads it has, and if your's is not stock to begin with, I would assume it would have more engagement, to allow for more lift which would need a longer rod as box to knuckle distance is greater.
I see the best option to be to adjust it. You can count the turns it takes to completely remove the joint, and then go back together to ensure it is engaged enough.
To adjust, get the wheels straight ahead, drive slowly to confirm they are, and then loosen the joint, and adjust until steering wheel is straight, or pretty close at least.
When the new one is installed, I would recommend setting the box to center, just to make sure everything is set up properly.
I don't know how many threads it has, and if your's is not stock to begin with, I would assume it would have more engagement, to allow for more lift which would need a longer rod as box to knuckle distance is greater.
I see the best option to be to adjust it. You can count the turns it takes to completely remove the joint, and then go back together to ensure it is engaged enough.
To adjust, get the wheels straight ahead, drive slowly to confirm they are, and then loosen the joint, and adjust until steering wheel is straight, or pretty close at least.
When the new one is installed, I would recommend setting the box to center, just to make sure everything is set up properly.
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