the starter relay that is tied into the security module that prevents the starter from kicking over is behind the passenger kick panel, there are a few there and I cant be sure which one is which. it will only energize and allow the engine to start if the alarm is deactivated, and the transmission is in park or neutral. the picture looks like there are 6 relays (3 on top of each other) and it is the middle top one, but I cant be to sure if I see this right or if your vehicle is the same.

 

Unfortunately I don't think the alarm can be deactivated. According to the manual if the alarm is "volumetrically" activated and the remote is unavailable then the ECU will forever remember it's activated unless it can be matched to it's original remote (long gone). So the ECU is basically junk.

I don't have a remote so it would normally only be alarmed in a halfassed state with the key. However because I was working on the drivers door lock (and other doors were open) when the actuator triggered a few times due to accidentally earthing/unearthing, as I was removing it, I think the system fully armed without the remote. Does that make sense?

The rear door actuator arm snapped during adjustment so that electronic actuator is inoperative but I don't think that makes a difference does it?

 

Sorry Chris are you saying that removing the relay will allow me to start the vehicle even if the alarm is still in it's armed mode?

 

no I am saying the relay makes the connection allowing the truck to start "only" if those requirements are met (neutral safety switch in neutral position and the alarm is disarmed). You would need to figure out which relay it is then put a jumper between the 2 pins that need to be connected to start the truck.

the reason I asked if you were in the US is because I don't believe the NAS model trucks can be volumetrically armed. even if this was the case, I believe that can only be done with the remote.

I personally think you have another problem going on. A few thoughts that I have are: I have heard of some issues in the past about bad actuators causing security problems but not sure about that one, there is also the possibility that you may have shorted the security ECU while messing with the actuators. another (as I said before) would be a sticky or broken door trigger or hood trigger causing the ECU to think a door is open while trying to disarm (some cars wont disarm if a door is open).

you said you have a remote that wont take to the truck? this brings up a few more questions, did you try to program the remote before you had this problem? did you buy the truck new? if not is the security system factory? is it the correct remote? I am not familiar with the remotes for these trucks as mine did not come with one, I prefer aftermarket and installed my Viper alarm remote start system as soon as I got the truck.

 

Did not buy truck new.
Has the factory alarm only (no remote supplied)
Purchased a remote but could never get the factory alarm to go into learn mode using the RAVE sequence. (red alarm light never came on) Tried several times over the years so I don't think that was it as the last time was a few days ago and same result.
Everything worked fine with the key.

I will let you know what happens when the replacement ECU arrives. (hopefully by end of week) In the meantime I will probably go stir crazy with no wheels.

 

alarms are more trouble than their worth.

 

It wasn't the alarm's fault it was mine!
Learned the hard way to always disconnect the battery first!

 

I am not sure where to go next, it is pretty difficult to diagnose this stuff over the net!

 

Thanks Chris, the ECU should be here in a couple of days and at least that will rule that out. Something fishy happened with the ECU and a PO I think, because the unit was just wedged between the other ECUs under there as both the plastic scew holes were snapped off! Maybe the reason why I was never able to get it into "learn" mode to sync the new remote I bought for it.

 

one thing that concerned me was the red antenna wire you mentioned, I don't think there is just a red antenna wire (if you mean what I think you do). anyways if you were to follow the schematics on the rave manual and use a multimeter to test wires we could probably disconnect the security ECU and change the state of the output wire to allow you to start the truck. If you have a good digital camera and could get some good pictures of the security ECU and the connectors that would be a good place to start.

on a side note: an aftermarket alarm would be wired to a few of the wires at the security ECU and it is definately possible (if it was wired incorrectly) that damage could have been done, I have seen this on many vehicles that use the same type of design.